Uprated engine mounts

[Captain Jack]

I am getting really tired of all the rattles in my car. I still cannot trace the source of the steering wheel rattle, it's just so annoying. Now, I also developed a sunroof rattle. Can only be heard when the inside slide cover thing is open though. Again, all this happens when the car is idling or at biting point.

I replaced all of my engine mounts 2.5 years ago but I have done a lot of miles since then, so maybe it's time for another replacement? I was looking on eBay and found "uprated" engine mounts. The bottom one looks like solid rubber - surely that will dampen down the vibrations and rattles? There's also a PowerFlex one but not entirely convinced of that one. Looks much easier to fit than the metal one, as long as I can bash the old one out.

Any advice?

[ally406]

Poly bushes, such as power flex, will increase cabin vibration and will be particuarly noticeable at idle. A stiffer bush will transmit vibration to the cabin more readily, a soft bush absorbs vibration. Have you tried genuine OE mounts?

[Captain Jack]

I think that's what mine at the moment ...

[waue1978]

Did the new steering wheel that you bought not cure the steering wheel rattle then? Did it even improve things?

[Captain Jack]

Did the new steering wheel that you bought not cure the steering wheel rattle then? Did it even improve things?

No on all counts But the horn is easier to press

[Welly]

Poly mounts = harsh vibration, it's a trade off but poly bushing is best left for track use imo.

[Captain Jack]

Balls....

[Welly]

Balls....

No you can't use them either

[Captain Jack]

So... what *can* I do? The problem is getting progressively worse. When I got the car at 60k, there were NO rattles at all. Now, it's like a bag of bolts. The steering wheel and the sunroof being the biggest culprits.... Ahhh!

[Welly]

It's probably that remap of yours trying to tear the engine mounts to bits.

A temporary eliminating exercise could be to ram-in some off cuts of old coolant hose (from a scrappy) pressed into the voids of the mounting bush to limit movement, this would show if the mount is being over-stretched and transferring vibration to the chassis.

On this very subject I've just become the proud owner of a new "Focus RS" engine mount for my Volvo as the same thing happens to these (chocolate lower engine mount).

[Captain Jack]

Possibly to do with the remap causing engine mounts to wear prematurely. How likely is the vibration is be causing by top engine mounts (those dog eared ones) and the gear box one? Those are very easy to change, unlike the bast@rd in the rear...

Got to do a quick service on my car over the next month or so, so will try and stuff the lower mount with hose bits, like you said and see if there's any improvement.

[Doggy]

I doubt it's the remap - 110's & 136's have the same engine mounts.
std 110 = 184 lb/ft, most remaps claim about 240 lb/ft
std 136 = 235 lb/ft, remaps claim about 295 lb/ft

Doggy's engine mounts are fine / haven't been replaced AFAIK in 162k / 25k post remap.

With Captain Jack's rattles etc. it makes me wonder if something else could be misaligned / out of balance?

[Captain Jack]

It makes me wonder if something else could be misaligned / out of balance?

Could it be the DMF on the way out? Hm, I'll give it a quick test by dipping the clutch as sometimes I get these rattles when the car is idling in neutral. I also thought it may be a knackered steering rack? But I did a very brief check and there doesn't seem to be anything loose or leaking underneath...

[jasper5]

It makes me wonder if something else could be misaligned / out of balance?

Could it be the DMF on the way out? Hm, I'll give it a quick test by dipping the clutch as sometimes I get these rattles when the car is idling in neutral. I also thought it may be a knackered steering rack? But I did a very brief check and there doesn't seem to be anything loose or leaking underneath...

To eliminate the DMF....

The rattle will be there on tickover, it will be between the engine and the gearbox.

Place a long metal bar/screwdriver on the engine/gearbox casing at the top where the gearbox bolts to the engine....the rattle will be heard here if the DMF is faulty.

[Captain Jack]

Thanks Jasper, will give it a go. It's more of a vibration causing rattles inside the cabin rather than an external rattle from elsewhere, though.