heater troubles please help

[woody687]

hi ive just brought my first 406 n i cant seem to get the heater to work. wen ive got the car running n up to temperature a small amount of heat does come out of the vents but no matter how high i turn the fan speed i get no difference in the little trickle of heat im recieving. i have no idea how to sort this as i av checked the fuses n they seem ok. i need to get this sorted as winter is comming and the kids keep moaning about the cold the little bleeders. i would appreciate any help with this but please b advice im only a rookie at working on cars tho i am willing to give anything a go. cheers people. Woody

[TRAVIS BICKLE]

Hi woody, let's start by finding out which 406 you have. What engine etc. And do you have climate control or anything like that.

Does the engine temp sit nicely at 90 degrees and not overheat when stationary? If that's all okay, when you look in your engine bay there are two pipes that go into the bulkhead, when the engine is warmed up and the heater is set to hot are both of these pipes hot to touch?

[woody687]

hiya travis, i have the 406 deisel estate, its 110 bhp hdi engine, 2002 reg. i believe it is climate control, its all electronic controls for the heating. yes it does sit nicely at 90 degrees and doesnt overheat. yes it appears that the two pipes goin into the bulkhead are hot to touch.

[gumby6371]

Hi Woody,

Do you mean it isn't getting hot or is your fans aren't kicking in?

If you turn the blowers up full it should push a lot of air through the vents.

[woody687]

hiya gumby, it seems the fan isnt kicking in. its hot just not pushin any air through the vents.

[TRAVIS BICKLE]

Does the heater fan make the right noises or is it not working at all? Fan motors are quite common for packing up. But very easy to change.

[gumby6371]

In that case I can think of 2 things, do a quick search on here for 'heater motor' as I recall seeing problems with the feed from the ignition to the blower, the other option is do what I do and jiggle the wires leading to the blower which is situated behind the glove box in the passenger footwell.
Mine has a loose wire somewhere up there which is usually cured by a quick jiggle

[woody687]

right ive tried giving the wires a jiggle but with no look i av now removed the blower/fan, can i put a live feed to this to see if it works before i try chasing the wiring back to the ignition??

woody

[gumby6371]

I've seen one tested using a jump pack before now but it did try and leap off the bench so be careful!!!

[steve_earwig]

Hi Woody

its 110 bhp hdi engine, 2002

Full mux warning

It might be worth looking at this thread viewtopic.php?f=3&t=13315&hilit=transistor

Dammit, the picture's gone

[lozz]

ive been told theres little prongs that live in the ign barrel,
& they wear out, or fall out
ive never took one apart so iwouidnt know if theyre replaceable, it be like taking a wind up clock apart iguess
bits getting lost or thrown,

wiggle the key in the ign if the heater springs into life it couid be this,
many of us have just give up and gone to the By-pass method not good aspose but it gets you through the winter,

[lozz]

ive just Borrowed this,

its infomation for Citroens, but iguess its the same ign/barrel and wiring set up,

might be worth a Read,

Possibility of the ignition contacts having become destroyed by an electrical overload in the air blower supply circuit, when the blower is used continuously at maximum speed.

If the contacts have seized and you have 'unjammed' the switch to remove your key it is likely you will require a new ignition switch complete, this is because the lugs that connect the contacts to the barrel will have broken.



In this instance Its advisable to strip the lock before investing money in the electrical contacts.

N.B.: A clogged pollen filter makes this incident likely.

Parts required either:
� Replacement ignition switch contacts Part No: 992712 � Do it yourself job
Or
� Complete lock set Part No: 4162S0 � Fitting this part requires keys to be coded by main dealer.


Removing & refitting the steering lock:

� Disconnect the battery


Remove:
� The fixing screws (1) (TORX20)
� The steering column cowling
� The fuse box cover (3)
� The fixing screws (4)
� Lower trim (5)

Unlock & disconnect:
� The connector (6)
� The connector (7)
� The connector (8)
� Unclip and remove the cover (9)


� Remove the screw (10) (TORX20)
� Position the ignition key on the mark (a), between A and M
� Remove the steering lock (11), pressing on the lug at (.


Replacing steering lock electrical contacts:

Remove the key from the ignition in order to guarantee the �STOP� position.


Separation of the electrical part from the mechanical part:
� Remove the screw (1)
� Disengage the rear part (2) of the steering lock body as in �F1�
� Remove the electrical contacts (3)

N.B.: To replace the electrical contact switch (3), use Part No: 9927 12.

Fit the new electrical contacts to the mechanical part of the vehicles steering lock.

Caution: As the contacts are delivered in the �assembly� position which corresponds with the �STOP� position of the ignition, you should not modify the angular position of the rotor.

Refitting

Proceed in reverse order:


� Refit the rear part (2), taking care to position the pin (5) of the locking finger (4).
� Refit the screw (1).

� Caution: Do not loose the pin (5) and spring (6) inside the locking finger (4)

Before refitting to vehicle, check that the ignition/steering lock works mechanically:
� Reinsert the key into the ignition
� Turn the key to the �starter� position, checking that there is no tight spot (except for the indexed positions)
� Check the key returns automatically from the �STARTER� position to the �DRIVE� position





Refitting the steering lock:




� Fit the steering lock (11) and check that the lug locks correctly (.
� Check the correct locking of the steering system
� Refit screw (10)




� Refit the cover (9)
� Connect and lock the connectors� (8), (7) & (6).



Fit a Supply Relay For The Blower
Parts Required:

� One harness with relay, Part No 6567VW
� Clip, Part No: 95 544 487
� Cable tie



N.B.:
� KH40 is written on the wire � good luck looking
� V1,V2 & V3 are used to reference which hole they go into in the plastic connector
� KH40 goes into No:5


� Remove the fuses (1) F38 and F40 as well as cover (2).
� Detach the wire �KH40� from channel G40 (this could be cut out of the connector from the rear, but make sure you insulate the unused wire coming from the fuse box).
� Refit the cover (2) and the fuse F38. Fuse F40 is not used from now on.
� Replace the existing clip (a), inserting it in channel 5 of the relay connector.



� Cut the wire (BM13) coming from channel 2 of the ignition switch connector

� N.B.: If you can remove the insulation without cutting this would be recommended and easier if you are soldering.

� 3V NR = 3way black connector

� BM13 = letter/number on wire




� Join the two cut ends of the wire (BM13) with the wire (V3) of the relay connector using a soldered connection.

� Insulate the connection.


� Detach the BSI from its support and disconnect the 26 way blue connector (4)
� Remove its cover (5)
� Insert terminal ( of wire (V1) into channel 1.
� Refit the cover (5) and reconnect the connector (4)

� N.B.: Depending on the configuration of the vehicles equipment, channel 1 of connector (4) may be occupied by a wire. If it is, remove a small amount of insulation from the wire, remove terminal ( from wire (V1) and wrap wire (V1) around it and solder. If necessary the wire may be cut to join all three wires using a solder connection. Make sure wires are fully insulated on completion.


� Fix terminal �c� of wire (V2) using the dasboard fixing screw (6)
� Secure the connector on the dashboard support, using a strap (7).
� Connect the battery
� Check the air blower functions correctly

Fit:
� Lower trim
� The fixing screws
� The fusebox cover
� The steering column cowling
� The fixing screws

This information is given as a guide and no responsibility is accepted for any inaccuracy or incorrect diagnosis.

[jasper5]

First thing to do is to check for live at the thick red wire to the right of the heater control module, if there is live there you can eliminate the ignition switch.

No live to the left side thick red wire with the fan switch on full and the engine running means a faulty heater control module.

Try bridging the red wires and see if the blower runs.

[woody687]

where is the heater control module situated jasper??

[steve_earwig]

The diagram I have shows it in the bottom r/h corner of the heater assembly but it also says "where separate", whatever that means