it hasnt been long and im back here for help
my 2.2hdi starting to drive me towards getting rid of it. i mean its nice good low mileage executive mid size saloon, but its been pain to me since day one.
looks like solved previuos intake hose problem didnt last long. Now im geting driving problems when engine is cold, its starts ok idles fine when you start to move around 2000rpm its like fuel cuts off after 10sec or so it picks up and strange sound from engine like air leak or something and it keeps doing in all gears, sometimes engine managment light comes on with overboost fault. But when engine temperature raises to normal no probs whatsoever, pulls like train no limp mode no nothing, out of ideas with this one... please help if anyone knows
Overboost is going to be a problem in the vacuum system or the turbo itself (highly unlikely the turbo though!)
You just need to go through the vac system and see whats what. First port of call, check the black plastic box under the brake master cylinder has all three vacuum hoses attached to it and none of them have become disconnected or snapped off.
Failing that, rev your engine whilst looking at the swirl arm. Does it move back and forth at around 2,000 RPM? If there is no movement then the swirl actuator and/or swirl EV are likely to be at fault.
They are the most common two problems. If its neither of them you just need to investigate the whole vac system with a vac gauge. I cheated and used a boost gauge and t-piece but you get the idea
i have checked vacuum reservour all hoses alright no splits, swirl arm works ok too. need to get time and tools to investigate vacuum system its been pain to me every day since i got car and got rid of fap and done remap and changed servo, something somewhere somehow somewhat went wrong.....
make sure the vac pipe clip is probably connected to the servo and that the two vacuum hoses that plug into it are secure and ok...
just needs everything checking over unfortunatly... it can be a bit of a faff
worst case is the turbo, this can be checked by connecting the vac hose from the turbo actuator to a vacuum pump, getting it down to ~30insHG (1 bar) and make sure it holds the vacuum. if it doesnt, its had it.
edit: try swapping your turbo EV valve with the EGR one next to it and see if that makes any difference? i replaced my turbo EV with a new one from pug (44 quid) and it gave the car a good 20bhp and better response... so i guess they are prone to wearing out too
will try that see if it makes any difference. Remember my previous 2.2hdi had similar probs with vacuum and constant limp mode, but this is weird as it all fine when engine is warm...
3 on the bulkhead (left to right): Turbo, EGR, One of the Air Dosers
1 under the airbox to the left: Swirl Valve
1 on the back of the airbox to the right: Other Air Doser
try putting a bolt on the vac inlet hose for the EGR and two air dosers and see if that cures it (so only the turbo and swirl valve EVs are left on the vac system).
The reason behind this: The air doser EVs are in use when the engine is cold (i THINK) to let uncooled air into the engine, and when the engine warms up these EVs shut off to let the cooled air in from the intercooler. Sounds like one of these EVs could be loosing vacuum....
3 on the bulkhead (left to right): Turbo, EGR, One of the Air Dosers
1 under the airbox to the left: Swirl Valve
1 on the back of the airbox to the right: Other Air Doser
try putting a bolt on the vac inlet hose for the EGR and two air dosers and see if that cures it (so only the turbo and swirl valve EVs are left on the vac system).
The reason behind this: The air doser EVs are in use when the engine is cold (i THINK) to let uncooled air into the engine, and when the engine warms up these EVs shut off to let the cooled air in from the intercooler. Sounds like one of these EVs could be loosing vacuum....
when blocking hose should i block both ends- to EGR and to EV, some for air dosers?(meaning have to cut hose) Thanks
you only need to disconnect and block the vacuum hose that feeds vacuum into the EV. you might aswell just leave the hose that attaches to the EGR valve to the EV (it wont do anything whilst the vac inlet hose is disconnected and plugged)
do the same for the air doser EVs too, should be no need to cut any hoses!
tried to investigate today, car was sitting cold since yesterday morning so would be easier to spot diffrence, blocked EV at air box first and went for the sort run- no diffrence instant hesitation even in first gear second gear over 2200rpm car is slowing badly , reconnected hoses and then next i blocked EGR - again no diffrence, reconnected and lastly was blocked EV (one of 3) and bingo! engine still cold and responding perfect with no previous issues! so problem is found for now, Many Thanks! now wondering can it be driven like this or should i get one asap to replace it, what diffrence on performance/economy will it make?
this is HDi problem right ? and EV is electro valve ? not all of us are familiar with with the shorthand lol
Replacement !
1998 2.1 TD LX Estate Red 196,000 TURBO DIESEL XUD11BTE "Alice " 200 k just hit yesterday 17/2/2012 not bio yet , smooth box , lovely runner
1997 1.9 TD GLX Estate Black XUD9TE " Norma " now sold
