fan heater update

[dieselink]

right people i finaly found the resisitor thing and took out,there r no loose wires at the resistor or ignigtion,what i need to know please is where the 2 wires from resistor go,one is grey and the other is green and yellow,i have run a live feed from battery to the red wire on right hand side of resistor and still wont work,do i need to run black from battery to or not ????,any help please,thanks,if any body can tell me how to run a new feed to make work i would be very happy to do that.

[jasper5]

Did you check if the heater worked by connecting the live feed to the LEFT side of the resistor module?

If the heater works when you do this then the resistor module is faulty.

My method of checking the resistor module is to start the engine and connect a test lamp to the right hand side thick red and black wires, if the lamp lights then I check the left side wires, if the lamp lights then the module is faulty....never had any other fault so don't know what to do if there is no lamp lighting up.

[dieselink]

no power to left or right hand side

[lozz]

That sounds like the comon ign switch fault, to me, couid be wrong tho,

Did you try testing it with the engine running?

[dieselink]

hi lozz m8,yes i had engine running.

[dieselink]

fixed at last,got a new resistor today fitted it but no power getting to it,so wired direct from battery now it now it works,any body know if its ok to run from battery permently ???????????,also air con still worked.

[lozz]

fixed at last,got a new resistor today fitted it but no power getting to it,so wired direct from battery now it now it works,any body know if its ok to run from battery permently ???????????,also air con still worked.

It will burn the wire eventualy, keep your eye on the wire for getting hot

[dieselink]

@ lozz,i will keep an eye on it,i did get 35 amp wire best i could find

[dieselink]

@ lozz,have u ever changed the cv joint at the wheel,if sodo u need any speical tolls to remove them,i have a splitt boot on pass side,just thort i would ask u coz yr advice has been spot on before m8

[lozz]

Hi,
C/v joint,
tools needed, 35mm socket, and good breaker bar or apiece of tube scaffold bar /table leg for leverage,
you can get away with 36 mm socket but it can chew the nut slightly,

You can get what you call a Split Boot, its a cv gaiter split in half comes with glue, you just glue them pop them to gether and they get you through an mot
if your replacing one for Mot purpose

[dieselink]

thanks lozz,i have been looking at the ones with the big cone,have watched loads of videos on it and it looks so much easyier than taking cv joint right of,have used then split ones in the past,but they dont last to long m8,thanks for yr advice again buddy,thanks

[jasper5]

fixed at last,got a new resistor today fitted it but no power getting to it,so wired direct from battery now it now it works,any body know if its ok to run from battery permently ???????????,also air con still worked.

I thought you tried a wire from the battery and it didn't work?

Regarding your CV boot on the passenger side, it's very easy to remove the whole shaft on that side, just undo the bottom ball joint after the big nut, lever down the bottom arm and pull out the shaft.

Those cones are a PIA.

Be best to drain the gearbox oil first, if it's clean drain it in a clean container and reuse it, if it is old it's a good time to replace it....approx 2 litres required.

[dieselink]

@ jasper5,i did try direct from battery,it was the resistor that was also faulty and have now replaced with a new one,thanks for info i just dont fancy or feel comfy about taking the shaft right out,more to the point putting it back togeather m8

[lozz]

its easier to remove the full shaft to change the gaiter mate,
Jasper5 advice is always spot on,

if its the driverside your replacing id change the engine mount whilst your in there if it looks worn, kill 2 birds with one stone so to speak

[lozz]

Forgot to ask , where are you located mate?
if your local ish to me, idont mind lending a hand