Ok, I have a 2000 model D9 606, and a drivers side electric window that suddenly will only go down.
Ive read through a lot of the older posts related to electric window problems but havent managed to figure out my problem.
I can control the passenger window fine from the drivers side switch, but i can only get the drivers side window to go down, not back up, there is not even a click from the motor when i try wind it up. I have checked and there is however 12V reaching the motor when i pull the up switch. (through one of the four attached wires)
The window cant be pushed back up manually unless i remove the metal housing around the motor coils.
I have bypassed the drivers side switch and get all the same results so i dont think there is a problem with the switch.
Is my motor buggered? Is it an electrical problem? Got any ideas?
Thanks
Luke
One Way Window
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Re: One Way Window
You may have 12v but do you have the ground also at the motor, if yes then it must be the motor otherwise its a power supply problem.
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Re: One Way Window
Ok, I will check it out this weekend!
Luke
Luke
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Re: One Way Window
So, ive been out with the multimeter and had a bit more thorough look at the drivers side motor wiring and got the following results:
Pin 1 (yellow) : 0V unless - press window button down:12V, or press window button up: 12V
Pin 2: Not used
Pin 3 (grey) : Constant 12V with or without ignition,
Pin 4 (yellow/green) : constant 0V
Pin 5: Not used
Pin 6 (red) : 0V unless - Down:12V, or Up: 12V
Ive checked in the Haynes manual and this appears to be correct (This is coming from an amateur when it comes to auto electrics)
As for you suggestion gtv, I'm not sure how to check if my earth is actually earthed. It has no charge on it at least.
btw, i live in Norway, so the drivers side is on the left hand side (in case this matters??)
Any ideas?? Im not sure how much longer my wife will tolerate a stripped door and no el. windows ;)
Luke
Pin 1 (yellow) : 0V unless - press window button down:12V, or press window button up: 12V
Pin 2: Not used
Pin 3 (grey) : Constant 12V with or without ignition,
Pin 4 (yellow/green) : constant 0V
Pin 5: Not used
Pin 6 (red) : 0V unless - Down:12V, or Up: 12V
Ive checked in the Haynes manual and this appears to be correct (This is coming from an amateur when it comes to auto electrics)
As for you suggestion gtv, I'm not sure how to check if my earth is actually earthed. It has no charge on it at least.
btw, i live in Norway, so the drivers side is on the left hand side (in case this matters??)
Any ideas?? Im not sure how much longer my wife will tolerate a stripped door and no el. windows ;)
Luke
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Re: One Way Window
The Haynes is close enough. Check for earth (negative) by putting your meter on the ohms scale and connecting it between the wire marked "M6032" and a known good earth on the car. Do not operate the switch...
By the way Peugeot don't use colour codes on wiring so always look at the numbers...
I suspect there will be an earth, otherwise the window wouldn't go down.
Looking at the diagram I can't figure out how the window works (I'd need to take one to pieces to work it out) -however- I do know that the part of the window motor your 6-way plug goes into is a control unit. I suspect it is logic-controlled, with the wires (6010 + 6020) either disconnected or supplying 12 volts, to inform the control unit what it is you expect it to do. Obviously it doesn't just reverse polarity - that would be too easy
The switch itself has 5 positions, obviously both wires have no voltage on them with the switch in the neutral position, what is on them in the other 4?
By the way Peugeot don't use colour codes on wiring so always look at the numbers...
I suspect there will be an earth, otherwise the window wouldn't go down.
Looking at the diagram I can't figure out how the window works (I'd need to take one to pieces to work it out) -however- I do know that the part of the window motor your 6-way plug goes into is a control unit. I suspect it is logic-controlled, with the wires (6010 + 6020) either disconnected or supplying 12 volts, to inform the control unit what it is you expect it to do. Obviously it doesn't just reverse polarity - that would be too easy

The switch itself has 5 positions, obviously both wires have no voltage on them with the switch in the neutral position, what is on them in the other 4?
Unskilled meddling sin©e 2007
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Re: One Way Window
Hey Steve
The way i understand the Haynes diagram is that the switch (189) has 3 positions (unless you are also talking about the button that controls the passenger door?)
- 'neutral' - 6010 & 6020 have no charge on them
- 'window up' - 6010 & 6020 have +12V on them
- 'window down' 6010 & 6020 have +12V on them
This agrees with my testing.
I just cant understand that this is correct as the 'window up' and 'window down' signal are exactly the same.
This could be why my window goes down no matter whether i press up or down.
Luke
The way i understand the Haynes diagram is that the switch (189) has 3 positions (unless you are also talking about the button that controls the passenger door?)
- 'neutral' - 6010 & 6020 have no charge on them
- 'window up' - 6010 & 6020 have +12V on them
- 'window down' 6010 & 6020 have +12V on them
This agrees with my testing.
I just cant understand that this is correct as the 'window up' and 'window down' signal are exactly the same.
This could be why my window goes down no matter whether i press up or down.
Luke
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Re: One Way Window
The driver's window switch *should* have 5 positions -
At rest.
Push it down - window goes down until you let go of the switch.
Push it further down past the resistance - window goes all the way down.
Pull it up - window goes up until you let go of the switch.
Pull it further up past the resistance - window goes all the way up.
However there is the possibility that different markets got different equipment and you car might not have this further function. In which case that diagram isn't much use to us.
Does your driver's window switch have what looks like a big "A" printed on it?
If it does then the automatic function will probably need setting up, although this is slightly irrelevant while the window doesn't work...
I suspect that the switch supplies 12 volts on one of the wires for the normal function but supplies 12 volts on both wires for the automatic function, the required direction being calculated from the signal it received immediately before. This is only a guess
At rest.
Push it down - window goes down until you let go of the switch.
Push it further down past the resistance - window goes all the way down.
Pull it up - window goes up until you let go of the switch.
Pull it further up past the resistance - window goes all the way up.
However there is the possibility that different markets got different equipment and you car might not have this further function. In which case that diagram isn't much use to us.
Does your driver's window switch have what looks like a big "A" printed on it?
If it does then the automatic function will probably need setting up, although this is slightly irrelevant while the window doesn't work...
I suspect that the switch supplies 12 volts on one of the wires for the normal function but supplies 12 volts on both wires for the automatic function, the required direction being calculated from the signal it received immediately before. This is only a guess

Unskilled meddling sin©e 2007
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Re: One Way Window
Ive driven the car for over a year now and never noticed the electric windows had an auto function!
In other words -Yes, there was a big 'A' and yes there were 5 different switch positions. I tested again with the multimeter and found that as you suspected:
slightly depressed down position - pin 6: 12V
slightly depressed up position - pin 1: 12V
fully depressed up/down position - pin 1 & 6: 12V
Does this mean the motor is getting the right signals?
If so, then i'll try and pick up another motor i can test out.
Luke
In other words -Yes, there was a big 'A' and yes there were 5 different switch positions. I tested again with the multimeter and found that as you suspected:
slightly depressed down position - pin 6: 12V
slightly depressed up position - pin 1: 12V
fully depressed up/down position - pin 1 & 6: 12V
Does this mean the motor is getting the right signals?
If so, then i'll try and pick up another motor i can test out.
Luke