Fuel Lift pump removal without fuel tank drop 2.0HDI Estate

[pugface406lx]

406 HDI 2.0 110BHP Estate 'W' reg yr2000
Hello everyone....I needed to replace my fuel lift pump in the fuel tank today.....everything I read pointed towards dropping the fuel tank but i didnt need to do that and managed to get the pump out and the new one in through the access hole under the rear seat without the need to open the hole wider.
I managed to undo the pump locking ring with a large blunted screwdriver and a hammer to turn the locking ring by locating on the web lugs on the ring....I used some WD40 first on the ring to release the seized thread....left it a few minutes then got to work bit by bit and it undid!
I tied the fuel pipes with some string so i didnt lose them between the body and the fuel tank.
The elec connector came off ok by squeezing the spring clip and pulling off easily.

The tricky bit was getting the locking ring through the access hole in the body but it is manageable by doing this......lift it clear of the top of the pump and position the ring through the hole at approx 45 degrees...the width of the ring doesnt quite go through so you have to squeeze/ deform the ring slightly as you pull it through....with it being plastic it will squeeze just enough to get it through without damaging it....from then on the pump comes out fairly easily with a bit of care not to spill the diesel from the body of the pump into the interior of the car...(there is quite abit in the pump so take care not to spill!)

The fitting of the new pump is straightforward just remember theres a notch in the body access hole to take the lug located the pump body....once aligned gently slide the pump down taking care with the fuel gauge float and arm trying not to bend/ deform as the pump lowers in.
The locking ring will go back through the access hole in the same way it came out....at approx 45 degrees....you will need to squeeze the ring a little bit again as you push it through...it is tight but it will go with a bit of effort ...and it wont permanently deform if you take care.

Make sure not to disturb the 'O' Ring on the fuel tank neck as you put it all back together...I tightened the locking ring up using the screwdriver again and tapped it round until tight and the pump cannot be pushed down on the spring loading any further. Reconnect the fuel pipes making sure they 'click' to lock properly as you push them on the stub pipes on the pump. Check they are on properly by giving them a little tug....you dont want fuel leaks because the pipes were not locked on!
Push on the electrical connector ....and hey presto job done!!
Refit the plastic cover over the access hole in the body after you have started the car and checked that everythings ok!

Thought it worth sharing my way of doing the job without the need to drop the fuel tank.

Regards
Pugface406lx

[steve_earwig]

I'm sorry to urinate on your cornflakes but the fuel pumps changed in 2001 and the later pump must be larger, when I did mine I gave up trying to do it through the hole as I couldn't even get the locking ring through it, the hole just isn't big enough. People have had to made the hole bigger or butcher it to get the pump out but I couldn't be having with that and had the tank off. So I'm sorry to say it's not because you're clevererer than everyone else, you just got it easy

[pugface406lx]

Hi Steve....doesn't surprise me when you say they may have changed the pump since my car...it seems everything I buy has a standard comment of "ok mate yours is a choice of 2"!!!
Looks like this time then I had a lucky break with that...the locking ring didnt want to go through the hole easily as I say but the pump came through ok on mine!!

Oh well Im looking forward to the next job I have to do with at least 3 options on what was put in my motor!!!

Regards
Pugface

[steve_earwig]

You might do better to first ask on here, the part's catalogues factors use aren't all that good and we should be able to narrow stuff down if you give us a chassis number.

There's a few times I've proved to my mate in the car spares shop here that his "infallible" part's catalogue isn't

[pugface406lx]

Hi Steve...nice one ....yes I will remember that for next time...in fact I have to replace the reluctor rings on my drive shafts as theyre about had it! The ABS cuts in almost all the time now because they are so badly corroded and worn away. I saw some on Ebay but there seems to be different spigot diameters on the 406?
I think its 90mm I/D but Im not sure.

Regards
Pugface

[steve_earwig]

I reckon they'll be the same as the V6 (same gearbox), there's a thread on the coupe club about replacing them (saw them in half) that'll probably tell you the diameter (I'd have a look but my password's on the other pc). For a year 2000 car they'll be 48 teeth anyway.

[pugface406lx]

Thanks Steve, The '48 teeth' bit rings a bell, somebody else said mine would probably be that as well, is it a hard job to do?

pugface