Lost the blower motor on my 406 when it just suddenly stopped.
Reading up on the subject, the achilles heel seems to be the control unit either separately mounted in the passenger footwell or attached to the blower motor itself.
I strongly suggest before attempting to dismantle anything, start from engine compartment fuse box and work downward.
After checking the engine compartment fuses were ok I moved to F40 in the interior fuse box which was in tact but had no 12V arriving at it.
With engine running and blower motor switched on I bridged from battery positive to F40 the bridge including a 20 amp in-line fuse.
The blower motor sprung immediately into life indicating a break between battery positive and F40 most likely the contact at the ignition switch.
Using the same in-line 20a fuse connected the lower terminal of F40 fuse block to the lower terminal of unused fuse F5. For terminal spades I split the 40A fuse in half removed the plastic and soldered each spade to the wire ends. Bingo!
I must emphasise to always include an in line fuse and also make sure the wire is sufficient in capacity to carry the necessary amperage.
Wish I could fix the whine from my fifth gear as easily as above.
Blower motor failure
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Doggy
- Mod with a 2.2 HDi, De-Fapped!
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Re: Blower motor failure
I think a few people have either replaced the ignition switch, or added an ignition-controlled relay in place of the dodgy contact, to overcome a similar problem.
Regarding 5th gear, it can't hurt to change the gearbox oil......
Regarding 5th gear, it can't hurt to change the gearbox oil......
2002 HDi 2.2 Exec Estate, (2008-12) (wonderful)
2003 HDi 2.2 6-speed Exec Estate (2012-19) (also a gem)
2009 Citroen C5 2.0 HDi VTR+ Estate (godawful heap)
2008 BMW E91 330i touring (great fun - murdered by a reversing SUV)
2007 BMW E91 325i touring (slower smoother quieter)
2003 HDi 2.2 6-speed Exec Estate (2012-19) (also a gem)
2009 Citroen C5 2.0 HDi VTR+ Estate (godawful heap)
2008 BMW E91 330i touring (great fun - murdered by a reversing SUV)
2007 BMW E91 325i touring (slower smoother quieter)
Re: Blower motor failure
Thanks yours dogslife. I actually purchased a relay to take care of the switching but why bother when above was a lot simpler.dogslife wrote:I think a few people have either replaced the ignition switch, or added an ignition-controlled relay in place of the dodgy contact, to overcome a similar problem.
Regarding 5th gear, it can't hurt to change the gearbox oil......
Re my fifth gear I have added molyslip which I now realise may not be the right thing to do!
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steve_earwig
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Re: Blower motor failure
Why is that then?
Unskilled meddling sin©e 2007
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Re: Blower motor failure
Just what I read! It's a while since I inputted my molyslip remark and it has done nothing to help the problem ie the whine continues. My blower moter has stopped again and I now suspect the voltage control module. Too cold to work on it at mo but will put my findings on forum as I go along.steve_earwig wrote:Why is that then?
Re: Blower motor failure
....as an ajoinder to above my heater control module is on the floor-pan and looks a sealed unit. Anyone ever been into the guts of this unit to change components or is it impossible to do?
Re: Blower motor failure
The plot thickens... The idea mentioned by someone to remove the blower motor to test is not only daft but unnecessary.
My blower motor control unit is the detached type on the passenger side floor held by a 1.8mm screw and not the type attached to the blower motor body.
Remove the retaining screw and pull out the unit which will have two (green) plugs. Remove the plugs by pressing the lug on each.
Test the motor by driving it from an external battery via motor side plug. I used ordinary pins inserted in the plug contact and a mere touch of the battery leads should kick a good blower motor into action.
With engine running checked the input to the voltage control unit and that was also okay.
Checked for voltage on the two thin wires which come from the front panel via the BSI and nothing. Further investigation required.
nb Took the cover of the blower voltage control unit for a look-see and the power transistor can be changed by anyone with a modicum of soldering skill
saving around £50 for a new unit.
My blower motor control unit is the detached type on the passenger side floor held by a 1.8mm screw and not the type attached to the blower motor body.
Remove the retaining screw and pull out the unit which will have two (green) plugs. Remove the plugs by pressing the lug on each.
Test the motor by driving it from an external battery via motor side plug. I used ordinary pins inserted in the plug contact and a mere touch of the battery leads should kick a good blower motor into action.
With engine running checked the input to the voltage control unit and that was also okay.
Checked for voltage on the two thin wires which come from the front panel via the BSI and nothing. Further investigation required.
nb Took the cover of the blower voltage control unit for a look-see and the power transistor can be changed by anyone with a modicum of soldering skill
saving around £50 for a new unit.