How many teeth are on the rear bearing

[Doggy]

Didn't I once read that full-mux 406s can be bled using PP2K?

99% sure you're right - I've seen the relevant page / read the prompts, then wimped out.
Just not sure if there's some stuff they're not telling you, (like maybe plug the additional 5l reservoir into the master cylinder first). The translation from french isn't always unambiguous enough when it really matters.

What we need is an intrepid voluteer and follow up howto.

Courage, mes héros

Alternatively: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uj1NT5XU6v4

(If yer needing ony a that translating, ah can dae that too).

[FarmerPug]

Got my cousin round and we bled all 4 brakes properly, i think the problem with the brake bleeding yesterday was a bit of a problem with the communication of you press the pedal ill open the bleeder.

Here is a video on removing the rear backplates and the rear bearings:
XgOw5SFb6J0

Damm well near £500 spent on the back of the car:
- backplates £170
- powder coating £25
- 2x Rear bearings £80
- rear disks, shoes, pins £80
- 2x Rear callipers, and brake fluid £110

But on the plus side, it no longer sounds like an aeroplane, the handbrake works like a handbrake, the car stops better and flakes of rust wont be falling off the backplates causing scrapey sounds.

[steve_earwig]

Erm, the video kind of ended a bit early (just me*) Other than that you're getting pretty slick at these you tube vids. I loved the speeded up stuff

The end result looks pretty good, it highlights the rear disks nicely. Only one problem - you'll have to powder coat the fronts now to match

[jasper5]

Yes, good video, there is another on youtube by someone else too.

To save time and aggro.....

Remove the wheel bearing/hub before you remove the shoes, this gives you more room and makes removal of the shoes and stuff much easier.

When rebuilding, don't fit the wheel bearing/hub until the handbrake shoes and stuff have been completely fitted in place....this makes fitting of the shoes, springs, adjuster and cable so much easier as the hub is out of the way.

Before you remove the caliper and disc push the piston back in all the way and the fit a brake hose clamp, this will avoid any accidental leakage of fluid and will enable removal and refurbishment of the caliper without losing any fluid from the system thus allowing an easier bleeding job at the end......http://www.pvrdirect.co.uk/productinfo. ... taodpgaaaw

If you want to repair/refurbish the calipers, follow the instructions I supplied earlier in the thread.

Sorry to stick my nose in, but I always try to make the job as easy as possible, from experience there is always an easier way and if I can help I will always try.

[GingerMagic]

Nice work Alex, looks good. No excuse not to do mine now....
Where did you get the hubs from and are they any good? Cheap eBay ones are £24, not sure if this is too cheap though.....?

[FarmerPug]

steve:
Yip the ending was a bit short, my uncle needed me to go with him to buy a hay turner so that used up that afternoon, the next day it was pishing down with rain so nowhere to safely set the camera while installing the shoes, also its a bit tricky getting them springs on i think ill make a seperate video some time just for brake shoes.


Jasper:
I think the other video is a 14 min job on just removing the rear bearing, i spend a bit of time editing the videos; cutting and speeding up the boring bits to make it more watchable.

Thanks for the brake hose clamp link, in the past ive used vice grips with fuel line over the jaws which works fine, the only thing was the rubber pipes on the back of the pug were rather hard and didnt feel like they would have coped with being pinched, normally that technique works fine, i changed the callipers on a neighbours corolla with the vice grips pinching the pipe and very little fluid escaped.

As for the caliper refurbishment, thanks also for your input but the rear passenger one has been giving bother for the past few years, i just decided to replace both with refurbihsed ones, i need the car for tommorow as my mum has a doctors appointment, ebay wouldnt deliver on time, and the motor factors doesnt have any rebuild kits, the callipers were a more expensive but quicker way to get back on the road.

I had wathced videos in the past about calliper replacement and disection by eric the car guy which i thought were helpful:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_UqTgYgd0Mk
(at 3:12 the vice grips trick was used)

Calliper disection:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RD7PRgeIBuw

Thanks anyhow for your advice jasper, i will remember it for the future.

Ginger magic:
The hubs came from my local motor factors, £40 a side.

[Menophanes]

Returning for a moment to the original subject of this thread: – A few months ago I needed rear-bearing kits for my old car, a 1997 1.9TD with ABS and drum brakes at the rear. Researches on eBay suggested that the 48-tooth variety (widely available for about £24) would fit my car. Fortunately, however, I had not yet ordered them when the garage which had checked the bearings for me told me (correctly as it proved) that my car actually required the 29-tooth type. (These seem to be much scarcer; I eventually found them at http://www.mister-auto.co.uk , priced at £42.18 each plus postage. They are Bolk-Optimal parts, reference BOL-FR691256.) Thus it looks as if the 29-tooth version may not be right for every ABS-equipped D8. I wonder if it is only drum-braked cars that use this type of hub. Can anyone clarify this point? It does not matter to me now, since in the event the car developed other serious problems and I sold it without actually replacing the hubs, but there may be others who need to know.

Oliver Mundy.

[steve_earwig]

I didn't see this before:

Thus it looks as if the 29-tooth version may not be right for every ABS-equipped D8

Why? I can imagine that there'd be some oddities on the change from 8 to 9 (despite what Service Box says) but what's your angle on this?

[Menophanes]

I didn't see this before:

Thus it looks as if the 29-tooth version may not be right for every ABS-equipped D8

Why? I can imagine that there'd be some oddities on the change from 8 to 9 (despite what Service Box says) but what's your angle on this?

Only that I should like to help a little towards establishing the facts. A multitude of eBay listings for the 48-tooth hub allege that it is suitable for all, or virtually all, 406s with ABS - D8 and D9 alike. My experience proves that this is not the case. If it had not been for the lucky intervention by the garage mechanic, I would have bought two 48-tooth hubs and found them useless. I have no doubt that most 406 owners are much more informed than I, but even so it is surely possible that others, relying on the eBay compatibility tables, may fall into the trap which I narrowly escaped. If the true applicability of the 29-tooth version could be spelt out here, it should help to prevent such confusions. Is this not worth doing?

Oliver Mundy.

[steve_earwig]

Pft, even spares catalogues get it wrong, I think you can be fairly certain that up to and including 1998 is going to be 29 teeth and 2000 onwards will be 48. For 1999 it's best to check.

I think the bottom line is don't believe what the sellers say on ebay, even if they did bother to check their facts it's still not certain that they got it right. That goes for anything on ebay...