Help with passenger front window, Please!!!!

[rustybullets]

I need some help with the front passenger electric window, I've now exhausted all the options I can think of, and it's really doing my head in now!
The car is a 1999, Y reg 2.0l HDI 110 exec estate. I pretty sure it's a D9 semi mux.

Bit of background:
About a week ago, my son put the front passenger window part way down, and it wouldn't go back up again, but did still go all the way down with the switch, never to return again.
Since then I have:

1. Verified that the passenger window switch is perfectly ok.
2. Verifed the drivers switch is perfectly ok. (expensively, as got a good working unit from another scrap one. Boy was that difficult to find an executive one. )
3. Checked that there is continuity in the wiring/no breaks or chaffs, and that power is being supplied to the window motor.
4. Expensively again, got a known working motor from scrap, again still no effect.
5. All fuses are intact
6. BSI reset has had no effect.

The only other information I can give is that it seems the window is quite happy to go down, the scrap one put in was a few inches of the bottom of the rail, and the switches took it all the way down, but not back up again.
There is no clicking or noise from the motor when pressing up on the passenger or drivers switch.
There is however the usual click from the motor when pressing down on the passenger switch. (the window is fully down, and the click is the usual one you get from the motor when fully up or down. However I don't get the click from the motor when using the drivers door down switch.

There are 2 pins on the passenger motor wiring, and I get 12V from one pin pressing up on the passenger switch, and 12v from the other pin when pressing down on the passenger switch.
However I only get 12v on the pin when pressing up on the drivers switch, and 0v on the other pin when pressing down on the drivers switch.
Again I know the actual drivers switch assembly itself is working.

Don't know where to find the relays for the windows, if this could be the cause?
And the Haynes book of lies, especially with wire colours (although the codes seem generally right), is not helping me anymore.

I've found a fuse for the drivers window alone 20A, the rear windows 30A, a general fuse for the whole system 30A, a fuse for the window relay 5A, and a fuse 'for the windows' & window lighting circuit board 10A (has no effect on anything window related when removed ), and all of these are fine.
Yet cannot find any mention of a fuse specifically related to the passenger window in the handbook.

Really don't know best step next, other than give up, and keep the blue peter sticky tape method of keeping the window closed.
Is this likely to be a BSI issue, and would it be readable?

Sorry about the major essay, but any and all help greatly appreciated!!

[rwb]

Are you measuring voltages at the pins on the switches or at the motor? The magic of mux may mangle what is received compared to what is sent. Would need to compare to a known good car to find out what is supposed to be received.

Edit: only need to compare to a motor that works, of which you have three.

Otherwise, that would appear to be impossible.

[rustybullets]

I did measure voltages at the switches at first, but then confused myself with Haynes diagram and the relationship of drivers switch to passengers.

The voltages I was getting were measured directly of the connector that plugs into the passenger window motor.

[markw]

Not familiar with Estate wiring, but are there any limit switches hidden in there? Perhaps the downward limit has gone faulty and not permitting current to allow the return journey.

[rustybullets]

There's no switch or wiring connected to the top or bottom of the glide rail?
Whether there is anything hidden inside the motor/regulator itself I'm not sure?

[jasper5]

Have you had a look at this.....

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=13831

This is about the driver's window, but it sounds like it might be similar to your problem.

[rustybullets]

Yeah, thanks for the link.

I did see this post, which made me take the drivers switch apart, and unfortunately not the cure for my problem.
Only the drivers window has the auto function, and so only this one has the little rubber boot over the switch that can get gummed up.
The rest of the windows (passenger and rears) are all little microswitch boxes instead.
But did manage to test them, and they are working at least.
Problem lies elsewhere.

Does anyone know if the windows are tied into the BSI system,
and if so, is it worth a trip to peugeot, so they can try and read some info on the problem from the BSI?

[markw]

Don't get your trousers taken down by the dealers!
Isn't there anybody with pp2000 near you that could do a quick diag session for you?

[puggy]

Ok i had exactly this problem with my X reg estate , firstly examined and
cleaned both switches no difference but i did get the window up useing a
piece of wire to bridge contacts. Bought a passenger switch of fleabay
made no difference did the same with driver switch no difference ,out of desperation
looked at all fuses etc no joy so bought another drivers switch, success this one worked
and all is well .

[Doggy]

I have a slightly similar intermittent problem. Some months ago, my n/s rear window refused to open from either it's own or the drivers door switches - I left well alone rather than risk being stuck with a window I couldn't close in the winter. A month or two back I started testing by examining the connections at the back door switch, when it suddenly sprang into life. Problem has reappeared a few times. but I always got it to work by firmly pressing / wiggling the drivers door switch.

In the last week, I've had the same thing with the front n/s window too. By some miracle they've never refused to close.......

[markw]

Don't rule out cable faults in and around the door flexi conduit. Coupes suffer from this and I wouldn't have thought saloons and estates are any different.
This pic (of my daughter's C4 rear hatch) shows what happens when the wires give up! There were all sorts of things happening. Intermittent locking, rear wiper with a mind of it's own, ...

[rustybullets]

Maybe I need to check out the door wiring again both sides more thoroughly.

The thing I don't understand is that I can get 12v reading on the multimeter, at the connector to the passenger window motor, every time I press up on either the drivers switch assy, or the passenger one.

[steve_earwig]

Does the other side stay earth/negative? Is there enough power there to run, say, a 12 volt light bulb? What I'm thinking here is that maybe there's a bad connection somewhere, so that it looks ok to a multimeter but when you introduce the load of the window motor the resistance drops the voltage to zero...

[rustybullets]

Right thanks to all the suggestions I've eliminated some more possibilities,
and after going back to the wiring diagram in Haynes, it seems I need to find what is called the
'built-in systems interface'
So far I'm assuming it could be part of the fusebox in the drivers footwell, but not entirely sure,
but it seems to show a relay which could possibly be at fault.

Does anyone know what relay does what in the fusebox, as I can't find any info on it anywhere.
Or if the 'Built-in system interface' is in an entirely different location.

[markw]

May not be any help, but on the Coupe, the BSI lives behind the fascia fusebox tucked up out of the way.