MoT fail, possibly a bad one.

[Dribs]

Well, numerous applications of WD40 and a few days to soak and it came off.
I was expecting a complete mess inside and the inside of the disk/hub to be horrendous. I was pleasantly surprised to find that aside from some surface rust and dust everything was in good shape. Why it was so stubborn I'm not sure.
One of the pads was quite low, but it transpired that it only needed adjusting (I will replace it at some point but it's not necessary at the moment to get through the MoT I hope). The spring that we managed to undo by mistake was put back in. I brushed and cleaned it up and back on went the disk. Handbrake adjusted and it was time to fit the suspension arm.

This could have proved to be yet another nightmare. The hex/torx/whatever it used to be at the end of the bolt near the wheel was a complete mess, we killed one torx bit, hammered in a 5mm hex, which then slipped, and the same again with another hex that was either a 5.5 or an imperial. A 6mm wouldn't go in. Rather stuck, we eventually got some mole grips from work and after cutting off the rubber seal, clamped the top of the bolt. This thankfully was enough and the knackered old nut came off the equally poor condition bolt.

New arm in now in place. However, what I am slightly unsure about is how tight the top bolt (where it attaches to the body) should be. Is the central bar of the arm supposed to rotate on the bolt freely or clamped tight? With the latter wouldn't the rubber seals twist too much?

Once that's all good, now comes the potentially hardest part; the caliper on the other side....

[steve_earwig]

As above, the filter in the second link with the odd-shaped seal is a Bosch. All the part's catalogues seem to list the Mahle filter as "Siemens" for some mad reason.

[madmadmax]

As above, the filter in the second link with the odd-shaped seal is a Bosch. All the part's catalogues seem to list the Mahle filter as "Siemens" for some mad reason.

the first use of the mahle filter was on the Siemens systems so that reference it to that.

[steve_earwig]

But calling it a Seimen's filter is incorrect and misleading - how many people must have got half way through a service, pulled the old fiter out to find they one they'd been given didn't fit and ended up with a car they can't use to go and get the right filter?

[Doggy]

But calling it a Seimen's filter is incorrect and misleading - how many people must have got half way through a service, pulled the old fiter out to find they one they'd been given didn't fit and ended up with a car they can't use to go and get the right filter?

Me, for one

[Dribs]

New headlight fitted, new bonnet attached, wheels swapped, handbrakes adjusted, all ready for the garage to do the brake pipes and the MoT today.

[Dribs]

Aaaanndd... the rear brake compensator valve is knackered. New part is going to be about £95 plus VAT. It's from an aftermarket place so hopefully it's less than from Peugeot, but I'm not sure if I'm still being stiffed.

3-4 hours done on it so far, the part will arrive tomorrow morning for another ~2 hours. So even if nothing else goes wrong the (possibly naive) expected cost of £200 for the pipes and MoT is now looking more like £500-600.

[Dribs]

It passed!

Just!

And now for an actual question rather than a pseudo-blog: Reconditioned calipers (I have a set of old ones to trade off against them) or new ones (which I doubt I can trade off on)?
The brakes barely made it through and one of the roll bars at the front is going.

Also, what would you recommend for anti-corrosion products? The underside is getting quite bad, especially the rear sub-frame.

[jasper5]

If you buy new calipers you won't have to trade in your old ones..

If you buy reconditioned calipers make sure the bleed screws are able to be removed and new ones are able to be screwed in otherwise you will lose the surcharge that the seller will place on your old calipers.