Over the past few weeks, I've noticed that it's getting harder and harder to start the car first thing in the morning. It even takes a good 4-5 turns when warm. This morning it turned over 10 times before finally firing up.
I can't really blame it on the weather as it's still relatively mild. The battery? The current one was bought in winter of 2010 and the starter motor turns over fine without labouring. Once started, it runs OK, other than my occasional turbo boost loss, which seems to be worse on some days that others.
* low temperature
* the battery turning the starter (and thusly the high pressure pump) too slowly,
* knackered crankshaft sensor causing a lack of injection - you'd probably notice that on the road
* loss of compression - you'd notice that too?
I think you're left with a lack of fuel. I'm sure we've seen instances here in the past where someone's had an air leak in fuel lines causing fuel to seep back towards the tank? Would turning the ignition on a few times before trying to start in order to prime the fuel system prove/disprove this theory?
<steve_earwig> I think this forum is more about keeping our cars going with minimal outlay than giving our cars more reason to go bang
mjb wrote:I think you're left with a lack of fuel. I'm sure we've seen instances here in the past where someone's had an air leak in fuel lines causing fuel to seep back towards the tank? Would turning the ignition on a few times before trying to start in order to prime the fuel system prove/disprove this theory?
Yep, possibly. The fuel filter is about 20k miles old - perhaps this is one of things to change first. Could also be a lift pump? Though I do hear it humming when I turn the key on.
Will give the suggestion of turning the key a few times before cranking over a go.
I would certainly replace the fuel filter, clean out the filter housing with brake cleaner and fill the housing with a good quality injection cleaner....see how it goes afterwards.
Captain Jack wrote:Yours is XUD, mine is HDI - are they the same?
No is the short answer!
1999 HDI 110 GLX Estate Sold On at 230,000 miles to the lucky John
2003 HDI 110 Rapier Estate
1998 D8 1.9XUD Estate LX 7 seater Estate sold, with regret
1999 306 1.8 petrol.
Loz means the one for the ecu, not the one for the gauge. Although I'm pretty sure a full-mux HDi only has the one...
My only contribution is... Check power is getting to the glowplugs. I know HDi's don't really need them until it gets mighty cold but I know they still do something.
They are sensitive to cranking speed - I've read it won't fire the injectors until it has registered 60 rpm for a second or so, (hence HDi's never fire instantly).
Worth a free battery check, also you can monitor cranking speed and fuel pressure via PP2000.
2002 HDi 2.2 Exec Estate, (2008-12) (wonderful)
2003 HDi 2.2 6-speed Exec Estate (2012-19) (also a gem)
2009 Citroen C5 2.0 HDi VTR+ Estate (godawful heap)
2008 BMW E91 330i touring (great fun - murdered by a reversing SUV)
2007 BMW E91 325i touring (slower smoother quieter)
Mm, well I'd like to discount the glow plugs as they haven't worked during the last 3 winters and the engine started fine. It's only a few months ago that I replaced the glow plug relay.
Cranking speed - well, it doesn't sound any different from before. It turns over fast and freely. But .. could be.
Yesterday, it took its time to start again in the evening (fist time using that car that day), drove a couple of miles to pick up the ironing. After that, the engine was starting fine with just a few turns. Later went to badminton - 2 hours after than, engine started fine.
This morning - again, took its time, about 10 turns. Turned it off and started again after 5 turns. Turned off and once again started after 5 turns. Does this mean it might be temperature related? ...or air in fuel lines?
Is there a way to check fuel flow during starting without PP2000?
I don't think this is the glow plugs, the HDi doesn't really need them unless it's -20 degC.
It sounds like you leave it overnight, fuel leaks away, air enters, and it takes a while during cranking to get full fuel again. Thing is the system should self-prime so shouldn't really cause this much trouble.
I'm wondering if the fuel pressure regulator on the end of the rail is causing problems i.e. it's not letting the fuel rail get up to full pressure (might account for power loss sometimes) does the engine run-on sometimes when you switch off? this can indicate a pressure regulator problem too. I read once on a diagnostic forum that the fuel pressure regulator can be 'treated' to some lubrication in the form of engine oil added to the tank of diesel (something like 1ltr of oil) to free-up the mechanism but at the same time I don't really want to encourage you to try this just in case something fucks up.
Cars in my care:
2021 Kia Spottage 1.6 Pez Turbo Dual Clutch Gearbox Trickery
2013 Renner Twingo - donkey work
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