2.2 hdi136 economy

[steve_earwig]

That don't look right

[mjb]

just ordered a new swirl valve off ebay - £25 (£2.50 more expensive than dealer price). This seller has sold 7 of these since 14th Jan! Just got to figure out how to fit it now

[Doggy]

See if your injector correction values have improved, they want to be within +/- 1.0 ideally at tickover, warm. I had a wonky injector or two on my previuos 2.2 - showed up as bigger correction values, lumpy idle, inconsistent MAF reading, (which actually reduced when you slightly increased the speed above idle).

idle: 2.5, 2.1, -3.2, -1.5
1700rpm -0.2, 2.6, -1.5, -0.8
2500rpm -0.7, 2.8, -1.4, -0.8
idle: 1.7, 1.7, -2.5, -0.9

hmm

Leak off test next, I suggest. e.g. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XPVZ6CkgKnw

(but don't forget to plug the common fuel return pipe the leak-off pipes normally connect to).

[Welly]

Would those results mean you need to replace the injectors then? I wonder what causes an imbalance like that, contamination?

[Doggy]

Wear or contamination. May well respond to ultrasonic cleaning, but first there's the little matter of extracting the blighters.
Mine came out easily, but others have had problems. viewtopic.php?f=1&t=14490&hilit=+wobble
Give them a good dose of WD40 round the stems while you consider the next move, can't hurt.

[mjb]

My god replacing the swirl flap actuator was one of the hardest car repair jobs I've done. Such pain. I took off everything I could see that wasn't holding liquid in, but even so my access was limited to a tiny gap just about big enough for my hand to fit through then wrap around to get to the back of the actuator. The screws I had to undo with about 12" of flexible screwdriver extension, manoeuvred into place using a second long screwdriver to push the tip, then I spent TWO HOURS with my hand through the gap trying to pull the bloody vacuum hose off FOUR BLOODY HOURS in total

...and there's no movement on the flaps

It'll take a while to get a chance to attack with Lexia again, so in the meantime could someone do me a favour and verify the valve responsible is 1628CH? It's the one attached to the side of the air filter box (dunno if this is a c5-ism), in which case if it's a 1628CH it's the only one on the car, the others being 1628LQ, whatever the difference is...


Also, while doing all that I had to pull off what I think is the EGR pipe? I'm guessing it shouldn't be completely blocked with crud? I've heard of diesel people intentionally "blocking off" the EGR valve, so is this crud accumulation actually doing any harm? Is it actually an accidental enhancement?

Why are diesels so bloody complicated?

[jonsowman]

The swirl EV is the one under the airbox, not the one attached to the side (on a 406 of course). 1628CH is indeed the right part.

The bulkhead onces are are either 1628LQ or 1628HC (note HC not CH!) - either will work and nobody's sure what the difference is.

The silver pipe that runs from the back of the engine round into the intake manifold is indeed the EGR return, and it does get coked up with soot, which is why a lot of people bin the entire system. It's likely not helping your lack of boost but is also unlikely to be the entire problem.

[Welly]

Have you tried running some additives in the tank? I've read somewhere that these can improve engine performance?

[gumby6371]

I think the saloon layout and the coupe are slightly different, the swirl EV on my car is fixed to a bracket just in front of where the actuator arm pokes through the turbo and EGR pipes to the left of the air box. Does that make sense? a picture says a thousand words as they say.....

Intake Manifold Air Distributor.jpg

These may also help

Turbo Air Piping.JPG

Detail Valve R G E.jpg

[mjb]

Have you tried running some additives in the tank? I've read somewhere that these can improve engine performance?

Bastard! I've just lost half my dinner all over the screen!

[Doggy]

classic!

[dirtydirtydiesel]

Have you tried running some additives in the tank? I've read somewhere that these can improve engine performance?

Bastard! I've just lost half my dinner all over the screen!

, L.M.F.A.O

[gumby6371]

After 'simplifying' my vac system to eliminate leaks and freeing up a binding brake I've done 100 miles of stop/start town driving at an average of a touch over 38MPG, previously I was doing 32MPG. I admit its not enough miles for a proper comparison but I've never managed to get the average that high before.
The trip data on mine is pretty close to my brim to brim calculations so it proves how much those niggly little faults can affect fuel economy.
Its still a little slow to rev from cold so oil and filters will be done after pay day and hopefully improve that economy figure a little more.

My 2.2 is slightly different to yours as it is minus;
EGR,
Air dozers,
Emissions crap
Intercooler bypass
and has the generic 180BHP map etc.

As the roads are getting drier and now I have fully functioning brakes the 200BHP map will be going back on, bye bye fuel economy!!!

[mjb]

The swirl EV is the one under the airbox, not the one attached to the side (on a 406 of course).

Yeah I've managed to sort it all today - plugging in Lexia showed an open circuit on the valve. A bit of unplugging each of the valves in turn told me the swirl valve is the sixth one, hiding somewhere I'd missed. Turns out as you said it's attached to the engine under the air filter, and I'd forgotten to plug it back in last week... D'OH!!!

The silver pipe that runs from the back of the engine round into the intake manifold is indeed the EGR return, and it does get coked up with soot, which is why a lot of people bin the entire system. It's likely not helping your lack of boost but is also unlikely to be the entire problem.

I'd be more concerned about something dislodging some of the crap and knackering the engine. I think I'll leave it though, unless I happen to somehow gain access to the exhaust-side so I can get the pipe off for a clean. Definitely going to need to have a go at the inlet manifold though, it was highly crud-infested...

But back to the original topic of the thread, I've found the main reason for bad economy, and I should have known this based on my coupé experience. Bloody front wheels don't want to turn when off the ground. Got to get it some pads before the MOT as it's down to about 3mm on the wheel I checked, but it feels like the problem's actually the handbrake (which acts on the front callipers on the C5)

[GingerMagic]

The swirl EV is the one under the airbox, not the one attached to the side (on a 406 of course).

Yeah I've managed to sort it all today - plugging in Lexia showed an open circuit on the valve. A bit of unplugging each of the valves in turn told me the swirl valve is the sixth one, hiding somewhere I'd missed. Turns out as you said it's attached to the engine under the air filter, and I'd forgotten to plug it back in last week... D'OH!!!

The silver pipe that runs from the back of the engine round into the intake manifold is indeed the EGR return, and it does get coked up with soot, which is why a lot of people bin the entire system. It's likely not helping your lack of boost but is also unlikely to be the entire problem.

I'd be more concerned about something dislodging some of the crap and knackering the engine. I think I'll leave it though, unless I happen to somehow gain access to the exhaust-side so I can get the pipe off for a clean. Definitely going to need to have a go at the inlet manifold though, it was highly crud-infested...

But back to the original topic of the thread, I've found the main reason for bad economy, and I should have known this based on my coupé experience. Bloody front wheels don't want to turn when off the ground. Got to get it some pads before the MOT as it's down to about 3mm on the wheel I checked, but it feels like the problem's actually the handbrake (which acts on the front callipers on the C5)

Does the C5 have the handbrake on the front calipers..??? I thought Citroen would have stopped that after many BXs were found at the bottom of hills after smashing into stuff on the way down......
The front brake discs expanded when hot ( as they all do a bit ) and then the handbrake was applied. As soon as the front disc cools, contracts to normal thickness then the front pads ( handbrake included ) were no longer in contact with the disc and then it was ' bye bye BX.. '. You had to park on a hill with the wheels turned towards the kerb, just in case..