As I've now been paid its time to sort the notchy top mount and I'm assuming they are best changed in pairs???
My car like all 406's is now over the 10 years old mark and I'm wondering whether to bite the bullet and hammer the plastic to change the lot but I really can't afford to do it.
Obviously the best option is replacing top mounts, shocks and springs all at once but as I'm on a budget......
Whats the best way to check the existing shocks? anything more precise than just bouncing the corner up and down?
Would using spring compressors on old springs weaken them more?
All thoughts and offers to pay are very welcome
1996 1.9 TD LX (Gone but not forgotten)
2003 2.2 HDI SE
I know the garage here has some electronic gizmo for testing shocks, as far as I remember something is stuck on the body (with a magnet maybe), the corner is bounced and the results displayed as a bouncy line. Other than that it's bouncing all 4 corners and checking that it comes up, maybe just a tiny bit before returning to rest. However, if it goes boing boing boing, makes slurping noises or it urinates hydraulic fluid down your leg then it's toast.
Why would using spring compressors weaken the springs any more? Unless you completely compress one side of a spring so it's in a circle... Just check for pitting near the bottom, that's where they start to crack (apparently).
I guess the shocks could actually be tested when they're off the car, perhaps you could budget for the bearings and springs (I don't think they're that expensive) and see what the shocks are like once they're off.
If you're on a budget just replace the top mounts if that's what's needed? I think you have to change the drop links when doing this job because the old ones get butchered in the process.
We don't tend to replace spring unless they snap, trouble it the front ones are known to, that said the new top mounts will ease any pressure on them. All you can do is inspect the condition of the powder-coating stuff on the springs if there's chunks missing and the spring is rusting then it makes sense to swap them really.
Dampers - replace if leaking I suppose. The 406 isn't really known for bad dampers.
Cars in my care:
2021 Kia Spottage 1.6 Pez Turbo Dual Clutch Gearbox Trickery
2013 Renner Twingo - donkey work
I can hear what I can only describe as a creaking noise when going over large speed bumps from the corner with the naffed top mount but the bounce test is fine and no sign of leaky fluid so may just be the mount flexing. No visible signs of deterioration on the springs when I cleaned up the calipers last month.
I'll order some top mounts and give the legs a good look over when I have them off the car, the drop links are OE and are only about 6 months old so I may get away with them if I'm careful, they tend to be a stock item so again I'll inspect and change if required.
Can't wait to get it sorted so I can get back to tracking down and eliminating cabin rattles!
1996 1.9 TD LX (Gone but not forgotten)
2003 2.2 HDI SE
You might as well do the spings while you're at it since it's about £50 for the pair.
Like welly says, if the coating is cracked and you can see rust spots then definitely change them. (Jasper pointed this out to me when he did mine.)
The same drop links went back in.
Standard warning: be very careful compressing the springs because they're very long and need to be compressed quite a long way.
No need to worry RWB I won't be going anywhere near spring compressors, I'll remove the entire leg and get a garage to fit the top mounts.
About £65 for a pair of decent quality springs for mine so its affordable (just) but I'll have a look at the condition and get the garage to double check them for me.
1996 1.9 TD LX (Gone but not forgotten)
2003 2.2 HDI SE
If get both front wheels off the ground, it's easy to determine where any noises are coming from as you can move the steering easily enough by pulling or pushing on the tyres.
A few of us have already had to replace the top mounts to cure this problem. I believe I managed to undo and do up both drop links - it tends to be the bottom end of them that give most problems.
2002 HDi 2.2 Exec Estate, (2008-12) (wonderful)
2003 HDi 2.2 6-speed Exec Estate (2012-19) (also a gem)
2009 Citroen C5 2.0 HDi VTR+ Estate (godawful heap)
2008 BMW E91 330i touring (great fun - murdered by a reversing SUV)
2007 BMW E91 325i touring (slower smoother quieter)
Thanks for the offer Jasper but your a little bit too far away to make it viable, would be nice to blast it up there tho
The reason I've only ever bothered lifting one side at a time is for that very 'wobbly stand' reason Steve, the jack doesn't role very well on my gravel drive. I use the ramps to lift both sides but that doesn't work too well in this instance. My stands are quite tall and I have to get my little jack on max lift to get them under anything solid.
1996 1.9 TD LX (Gone but not forgotten)
2003 2.2 HDI SE
I don't want to sound like an arse but are you sure that's a safe surface to work on? I'd hate for it to topple and trap you. Also sounds like your jack/axle stand combo aren't really matched?
Sorry if this is a Grandma/sucking eggs thing but we're kind of giving advice on what to fix but without knowing how you're going to work safely. My advice for big jobs if you haven't got the kit/experience or if there's any doubt then get a Garage to do it, you'd be off work a long time if you crushed your hand or something....the cost of the Garage work would then be irrelevant.
Apologies again, you're likely to be far more competent than me but I'm in a 'worry about everything' mood and wanted to say.
Cars in my care:
2021 Kia Spottage 1.6 Pez Turbo Dual Clutch Gearbox Trickery
2013 Renner Twingo - donkey work
I often have to help my 77 year old father repair his vehicles on his gravel drive, which is not ideal!
I found the best way to overcome the gravel / instability issue is to put down a large sheet of 19mm
plywood then jack and axle stands on there........ of course he wouldn't dream of using a garage for
any repairs even after a double hip replacement
I totally agree Welly about my drive not being particularly stable, thats why I usually clear the gravel from under the jack then lift the car, lower it onto the stands but leave the jack in place, remove the wheel and leave that under the sill. If I'm under the car I use the ramps.
I have considered taking a couple of inches off the top of the stands to make them easier to get under the car and more stable, they were designed for 4*4's not 406's.
Of course I always have the option of throwing the tools in the boot and using my mothers flat wide drive, only problem there is having to get every spot of mess cleaned up after I've finished or getting my ear bent for weeks
1996 1.9 TD LX (Gone but not forgotten)
2003 2.2 HDI SE
I let a colleague borrow my nice Double Garage with a painted floor, he knocked over a 5ltr Oil can but didn't notice for 5 minutes..........
The oil STILL comes back up through the floor screed and paint finish 6 years later the only fix is for me to chop out the screed.
A couple of weeks later he had to borrow my nice imported Honda with 17" Rimz (which'd JUST been refurbished at great cost).......he said he'd be 'careful' not to kerb them........I'll leave the rest to you
Cars in my care:
2021 Kia Spottage 1.6 Pez Turbo Dual Clutch Gearbox Trickery
2013 Renner Twingo - donkey work
)
the only fix is for me to chop out the screed.