My new 406 project....

[Doggy]

I changed my swirl flap actuator in about 45 mins, only dismounted the TPS and its mounting bracket. It helps to have two 1/4" drive extension bars and some torx bits to fit on the end, that way you can undo & tighten the 3 screws from above, you just have to get one hand to the gubbins itself.

[GingerMagic]

EGR is third when I find a 1.2mm and a 3mm blanking plate. Will a 1.2mm each end of the EGR plumbing be strong enough, as I plan to keep the pipework in place for future MOT reasons..

Looks good Kelv!

I might have some of these for you in a couple of weeks if you are ok for that long, i need to deFAP by brother's Coupe and has already had the EGR blanked with really thin plates but all pipework removed too I've got some Nico pipes coming for it with some hefty blanking plates to swap over, can post the thin ones to you to slip under the original pipework?

Hi Ian, that will be lovely - thank you very much.

I will MOT the car in 6 weeks and then see how I feel about swapping bits over or selling on..

I changed my swirl flap actuator in about 45 mins, only dismounted the TPS and its mounting bracket. It helps to have two 1/4" drive extension bars and some torx bits to fit on the end, that way you can undo & tighten the 3 screws from above, you just have to get one hand to the gubbins itself.

Thanks Eric, luckily I have ' girls ' hands so I can pretty much access anywhere in the engine bay....

[rwb]

I see the oil leak has been promoted to catastrophic

[GingerMagic]

I see the oil leak has been promoted to catastrophic

Well, if it was worth fixing I would do it - some leaks can be patched, some are simply annoying but okay to live with, some leave a big patch everywhere you park and are a bloody bastard expensive repair

[gumby6371]

I changed my swirl flap actuator in about 45 mins, only dismounted the TPS and its mounting bracket. It helps to have two 1/4" drive extension bars and some torx bits to fit on the end, that way you can undo & tighten the 3 screws from above, you just have to get one hand to the gubbins itself.

Kelv,
Now I think about it Eric's approach is a much simpler method to change the actuator, I was doing an EGR blank and vac system modification at the same time so it was all coming out anyway.
Removing the air box, turbo and EGR pipes does give you good access to all the spaghetti tho if swapping the actuator doesn't fix your vac leak.

Might be worth swapping your known good electrovalves and see if it cures the fault, all 5 should be easy to get at with only the airbox removed.

[GingerMagic]

Thanks for the tips..

Gumby, can I trouble you for an easy to understand vacuum layout? I mean easy as in just what I need to supply the servo and turbo EV? There is the one posted up a while ago but it isn't all relevant and I want as few potential leaks as possible before pointing at the servo being faulty. I think I only need the turbo EV and the swirl flap EV, correct?

I tried to remove the FAP today - it wouldn't budge - even with a spanner on spanner on the nuts..... I'll get some WD40 tomorrow and soak them for a couple of days before trying again. On the plus side I managed to remove both front foglights by reaching up from underneath and only removing the bumper end of the wheel arch liner for access, the foglights also came out through the bottom too. Twas a bit tricky though ..

There is also oil-a-plenty around the dosers, so the Nicopipes are a definite, as well as putting my old intercooler on as its better than the one thats fitted...

Ho-hum.

[jonsowman]

Will I be seeing this new one at Chieveley?

[GingerMagic]

Hi Jon, I'll be bringing my old car to Chievley, a sort of swan song for it, the new one is Sorned until defap and deegr, then Mot if the vac leak is sorted.

[GingerMagic]

I had a look at my motor today in my lunch hour. I removed the airbox, with MAF, breather pipe, and egr inlet / air doser inlet bolts to clean the sludge out. I tried to suck on the swirl flap pipe and was just getting fresh air through the pipe, so off came the throttle housing ( no clip on cable... ) and I stumbled across this....;

'Photo accidentally deleted... )

I believe this is a gaping hole in my vacuum system. The pipe going down between my fingers leads to the swirl EV, the top 'T' piece is broken off. If I get a new 'T' piece will this fix my issue - maybe my swirl flap is okay after all.

Also, oddly, this 2.2Hdi is different to my other 2.2Hdi - the water outlet to the heat exchanger is completely different and I'm not sure if I can re-plumb it as easy as mine was. The EGR at the back of the engine is also different..??

The air dosers on this are much more filthy than my old ones, as is the intercooler, so there is another job to do now....pfft,!

At least the front foglights look nice..

[Doggy]

Well spotted, Kelv.

Bear in mind that when you remove the dosers you will want to do away with said t-piece. You can probably re-arrange what you've got without buying another one.

[GingerMagic]

Thanks, I will probably need to keep everything in place until I get an MOT, then I can do the air dosers from my old car as I no longer have a spare car.

I'll get an EGR blank from eBay - the 1.2mm one and reassemble the engine bay when all is clean to see what faults I may have left.

Reading on the Peugeot Forum - I didn't realise that having a naff glow plug relay meant the car couldn't do a regen, I suspect my Fap is chocka-block with soot...

[jonsowman]

Reading on the Peugeot Forum - I didn't realise that having a naff glow plug relay meant the car couldn't do a regen, I suspect my Fap is chocka-block with soot...

Got a link for that Kelv? I think that's true in some vehicles depending on the post-injection strategy, but I'm not convinced that it's true on the DW12/ECD15.

[rwb]

FWIW it's true on the DW12B/EDC16.
They're switched on to put load on the alternator, like the heated rear window.

[Doggy]

Makes sense, (if that's the right word), as the glow plugs will load the alternator to make the engine work harder and increase the combustion chamber temperature too.

It does not necessarily follow that it can't do a regen without them, but it's chances of 'success' have to be lower.

[GingerMagic]

Right, I had a spare half hour earlier, so I took the plunge and removed most of the vacuum pipes. I am still using my old 406 which has been de-egr'ed so I just copied the pipework....

I haven't finished yet as it was getting dark, but I have 2 questions...
1) When its suggested I keep the restrictors in place, what and where are they?
2) some of the pipework nearest the pump and the servo are a solid construction, do these come off with a good tug ( ! ) or not, I don't want to break the connector blocks on the pump and servo...

Thanks to everyone for all your input so far

Ooops, just read back through the thread - they are quick-clip ( thanks Jon )