Millers Nanodrive

[Bailes1992]

It's not very often I get impressed by oils and additives. Actually most of the time I dismiss everything as a placebo.

I'm sure most of you know what I drive. It's a 2008 Mondeo 1.8TDCi (125) with a few modifications.

Friday on the way home from work I realised my car was due another oil change. I personally change my oil every 6 months or 6,000miles.
Back in April the car had a full service and filled with 5w40 Castrol Edge Turbodiesel oil.
During the warmer weather I tend to step up to a 5w40 oil and in the winter drop down to a 0w30 oil. Everything in between gets a 5w30 oil. I just ensure that the oil has an ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4 or preferred an A5/B5 specification.

So anyway, I popped into my local motor factors. Picked up a new sump plug, an oil filter and some oil. As the temperature is starting to drop I thought it sensible to get a 5w30 oil. I wanted to flush the engine out so I got 5 litres of cheap 15w40 mineral oil and I picked up 10 litres of Millers Nanodrive 5w30 oil that meets the new Ford M2C-913D specification.



So with the engine hot I dropped out the old oil. Replaced the sump plug and filled the engine up with the cheap 15w40 mineral oil. Took the car for a gentle drive before draining off again, replacing the filter and sump plug and refilling the engine with the new millers oil.



Oil is oil to me. I pick up something with a brand name, ensure it has a suitable viscosity and specification and stick it in. I can't say I've ever noticed much of a difference other than the oil light goes off a bit quicker during winter using a 0w30 oil. I'd never even heard of the Nanodrive oil range until I bought this stuff.

I must admit though that since using this oil my engine is without a doubt pulling harder and for slightly longer and it's idling smoother and quieter, especially when it's cold. The engine never really enjoyed being revved but the engine seems far happier now to rev which is a massive surprise. I thought most of this was in my head but I had a Google and there's been magazine coverage of this oil including back to back dynos after oil changes where cars have gained significant increases in power. I am also suspecting my fuel economy will have increased by the end of next week but I've been driving it like a bit of a bellend this weekend.

So if you have an oil change soon I really suggest giving this stuff a go!

Bailes.

[fattail95]

How would this stuff do in the 2.0HDi? I've heard these engines like thicker oil, rather than the low friction stuff?

[gumby6371]

+1 on the service schedule, I do the same but 6000 miles is roughly 12 months for me anyway, I'll have a nosey at the Millers range next time.

How would this stuff do in the 2.0HDi? I've heard these engines like thicker oil, rather than the low friction stuff?

5W30 goes in my 2.2 happily enough, I use the low saps C2 stuff but mainly as I have to in the 307 which is still DPF'd (for now) and it makes sense to buy 1 oil for both cars.

I was told many times when I first bought a diesel that older engines need thicker oil, the same people also said you have to drive a diesel hard. Personally I think those people are still living in 1973 but I'm no engineer. All I know is the XUD liked 10/40 semi synth and the HDI likes 5/30 fully synth and if I drive my car 'hard' too often I'll either be dead or lose my license.

[KozmoNaut]

I was told many times when I first bought a diesel that older engines need thicker oil, the same people also said you have to drive a diesel hard. Personally I think those people are still living in 1973 but I'm no engineer. All I know is the XUD liked 10/40 semi synth and the HDI likes 5/30 fully synth and if I drive my car 'hard' too often I'll either be dead or lose my license.

You don't have to drive like a nutter, but if you putt around below 2000rpm all the time and (even worse) do a lot of short journeys, your EGR valve etc. will soot up (if you haven't chopped it off).

Generally, people are too "nice" to their engines and it's actually worse for them than getting them nice and warm and giving them the beans. Besides, puttering around at low revs all the time is mind-numbingly dull.

[Rolebama]

According to their website they also do Nanodrive in gearbox oils. Might be worth trying the two together.

[jasper5]

The older cars (XUD) will run happily on 10w40 semi synthetic or fully synthetic, 5w30, 5w40 as will the HDi.
Using a mineral oil such as 15w40 will reduce the cold starting performance of your engine.

If you switch to a fully synthetic 0w30,5w40 or 5w30 then you will gain better cold starting performance...it will not harm your engine to switch directly to a fully synthetic oil.
It's the cold starting performance of your oil that is most important, most oils with 40 suffix will perform the same at higher temperatures as will oils with 30 suffix.
0w or 5w means the rating of oil in winter, hence the W.
I'm sure our oil expert will confirm this.

[Bailes1992]

I was told many times when I first bought a diesel that older engines need thicker oil, the same people also said you have to drive a diesel hard. Personally I think those people are still living in 1973 but I'm no engineer. All I know is the XUD liked 10/40 semi synth and the HDI likes 5/30 fully synth and if I drive my car 'hard' too often I'll either be dead or lose my license.

You don't have to drive like a nutter, but if you putt around below 2000rpm all the time and (even worse) do a lot of short journeys, your EGR valve etc. will soot up (if you haven't chopped it off).

Generally, people are too "nice" to their engines and it's actually worse for them than getting them nice and warm and giving them the beans. Besides, puttering around at low revs all the time is mind-numbingly dull.

Completely agree! Far too many people bumble around at 1200rpm and when you try to advise them otherwise you get the whole "Well lorries only rev to 1700rpm".

My Mondeo gets driven between 1750rpm and 3000rpm all the time. Very rarely do I exceed 3000rpm but I never drive at any less than 1750rpm.
The 1.8TDCi has a common fault with small end bearing failure. All the engines that have issues are town driven by people who never stretch the engines legs. They drive everywhere at 1200rpm which puts massive stresses on parts like the conrods and the crank then because the engine revs are so low the small end bearings aren't getting enough lubrication and over time they fatigue and fail.

Car engines simply cannot burn fuel efficiently when driven low in the revs. They aren't designed too!
When people drive them so gently they get sooted up, stressed out and loose performance and efficiency.

I drive my car easy most of the time but I always keep the revs up. I do give it some stick from time to time too! It's on 143,000miles now and it's never burned a drop of oil, it returns 60mpg+ with ease, it's refined, reliable and it pulls like a train.

The older cars (XUD) will run happily on 10w40 semi synthetic or fully synthetic, 5w30, 5w40 as will the HDi.
Using a mineral oil such as 15w40 will reduce the cold starting performance of your engine.

If you switch to a fully synthetic 0w30,5w40 or 5w30 then you will gain better cold starting performance...it will not harm your engine to switch directly to a fully synthetic oil.
It's the cold starting performance of your oil that is most important, most oils with 40 suffix will perform the same at higher temperatures as will oils with 30 suffix.
0w or 5w means the rating of oil in winter, hence the W.
I'm sure our oil expert will confirm this.

As far as I was aware it was switching to an ester based oil that causes issues with leaks.
Switching to a 5w viscosity, fully synthetic good quality oil will only improve on what has been used previously.