Day Trip to Bangor

[Doggy]

I'm thinking you're right, Alex.

[grasmere59]

Just a thought but ignore me if it sounds daft as I no nothing about the dpf but are the tappings either side of it for the temp probes big enough to put an endoscope or similar in and have a look? My mate who runs a garage uses one sometimes to look at engine internals.

[Doggy]

Nice idea, but I don't think it would work. If the cat element's in place. you won't see anything through the front sensing pipe. Using the back one would mean removing the pipe, which would be similar to unscrewing a lambda probe it terms of risk of thread seizure, plus it's still not ideally placed.

Undoing the exhaust clamp betwixt FAP and middle pipe looks favourite.

[GingerMagic]

Undoing the exhaust clamp betwixt FAP and middle pipe looks favourite.

Agreed, its easy to undo and relatively easy to reach... Maybe you could just shove a bit of wire into the back to check for 'obstructions'...

[Doggy]

Apologies for the lack of updates - I've been nursing another bout of 'man flu' which limited my otherwise boundless enthusiasm this last weekend.
I did prevail upon my bro to pick up a nice, shiny new swirl flap diapragm on Friday, for the bargian price of £28.08, (at least he was paying).
Thinking back to when I swapped the one on the original dogmobile, it hadn't been too difficult, so we set about doing it late Saturday afternoon. Removed the TPS + its mounting bracket so you can at least see the mounting screws, but removing them wasn't as simple as I thought I remembered. We wound up removing the acoustic covers, undoing the flexi hose from the MAF and loosening the egr pipe support bracket, all of which improved access by a miniscule amount. Eventually wiggled a collection of 1/4 drive extension bars down parallel with the linkage and guiding them into the screw heads by touch. At last, out it came.

"Good! We're halfway there now", I pronounced, little suspecting the traps for the unwary I had yet to stumble into. several knuckle grazing minutes later, the new assembly was inserted through the hole in the mounting bracket and the ickle plastic cup popped onto the end of the linkage to keep it in place. All that remained was fitting 3 screws and sliding the vacuum pipe back on.....

This is when I discovered the screws don't fit the new diaphragm unit! (No, I didn't have the sense to try them before putting the bar steward in there).

Out it came, tried the screws in the holes, they went in by about 1.5 turns then tightened up.

At this point, I should have:

a) Returned gubbins to Peugeot demanding a replacement that FITS, or
b) Found myself a set of M5 taps and eased the threads so the screws went in as they should.

So, I listened to my bro. We graunched the screws into the threaded brass inserts, meeting increasing resistance and ominous squeaking noises which were clearly saying STOP! We then managed to delude ourselves into thinking that the screws were now capable of going in far enough to tighten up, (the bracket's about 4 mm thick, so they don't NEED to go all the way in).

In the fading evening light the next, ill fated installation attempt was initiated, with predictable results. We got 2 of the 3 screws in, but neither would tighten enough to lock in place. Finally, we admitted defeat and we left it before we did any more damage.

Sunday, I was proper poorly wiv man flu, so we left the pug and I convalesced by collecting and stacking about a ton of firewood...

Today, feeling much better, I got some M5 taps and, in the half hour between getting home and having dinner, removed the diaphragm, re-tapped the holes and had it ready to go back in. What a difference a day or so makes.

I'm sure I did the whole thing in about 45 minutes last time.

[GingerMagic]

Eric, I remember giving you a swirl diaphragm at Pugfest.......

[Doggy]

[jonsowman]

[Welly]

Oh dear, great little story BTW but I'll let you off for being poorly....leading to many capers and carry on's.

[Doggy]

Fitted the new swirl flap diaphragm this evening without any real drama, (for a change).



Works too!



Airbag fault's back.

[Welly]

Are you not thinking of by-passing all that gubbins ala Nico-style? do you still run all that standard IC by-pass stuff on yours?

[Doggy]

The swirl flappage is something else, (nowt to do with the bypass heat exchanger), its purpose is to shut off one set of inlet valves at low engine speeds, (<2100 RPM), to promote higher air velocity / better charge distribution within the cylinder.

3.0 Beemers have them, but the discs fall off and kill the engine....
Fiat JTD/GM CDTI's have them, but the spindle bearings fail and kill the inlet manifold....

These aren't too bad in comparison.

We're trying to do this one a step at a time, to see which change has the most effect on turbo lag / low speed running e.g.

1 fix swirl flaps
2 blank egr
3 'Nico mod'

It'll wind up the same spec as mine, but don't hold your breath.

[Welly]

I see, cheers.

[Doggy]

Yesterday, we refitted the last odds and sods removed to change the swirl flap diaphragm, then had a test drive. Conclusion?
If it makes any difference, it's marginal at best.
The turbo lag on this one seems excessive - much like mine when I first got it.

Anyway toady we set about discovering what, if anything, was lurking within the FAP housing...

Undoing the exhaust clamp betwixt FAP and middle pipe looks favourite.

Agreed, its easy to undo and relatively easy to reach... Maybe you could just shove a bit of wire into the back to check for 'obstructions'...

...except it's not possible to separate the pipe at this point, because the spigot on the back of the FAP housing extends about 40 mm inside the middle pipe.
So we took the whole shooting match off and discovered it was full of emptiness. No cat. No FAP. Nix, nada, rien, zilch.
Oh well, least now we know. So we put it all back on again.
A quick check for exhaust leaks, all good, so we installed some 'motivational software'.

Test drive #2...
I didn't drive it myself, but the impression was very much like mine when I first got it -
desperately lethargic until 1600 - 1700 RPM, then your Tiger Moth suddenly hits zone 5 afterburner

I suppose we're making progress, we answered a few other questions today:

Q1. Why is the additive tank wiring and plumbing swinging in the breeze under the car?

A. Cos there's no additive tank.

Q2. Why is the bottom of the wheel arch liner hanging down below the crossmember?

A. Cos there's no undertray to attach it to, no fixings holding the front half of the liner to the inner wing, no longer any wiring for the pad wear sensors, (the ABS sensor wiring has miraculously survived) and loads of shiny bits where the liner's been rubbing on the front tyre.

Patched it up for now, just needs a couple of those fixing plug thingies.

Next, operation egr and 'Nico mod'.

[GingerMagic]

Points to a turbo EV / vacuum leak....
Hopefully the Nicopipe and EGR blanking will help with regards to the turbo lag. Don't forget to remove and bypass the vacuum reservoir to avoid possible leaks in the future

Was the 'motivational software' the 180 or the 200?? The MK1 Gingermobile preferred the 180, whereas the MK2 Gingermobile is fine with the 200...

As for the undertray, I think the liner attaches to the bumper by the fog light torx, donor car has no undertray but the wheel arch liner is still secured in place.

Result with the FAP and CAT though, saves a job.