End of the road ?? Or a new start...

[Welly]

I recently bought a Renault Twingo 2010 for £500.00 less than 'retail'. The seller was a Trader who worked modestly from home dealing in 'trade ins' that local dealers didn't want.

It was clear to me firstly why the car was traded in and secondly that the Trader guy had paid bottom-book trade for the car and was making circa £400.00 on the sale (fine by me).

The 'problems' facing the previous keeper were:

Cambelt was due
Front Tyres due soon-ish
Service due 'this year'
Air con not working
Weird fist-sized dents on bonnet.

Now sorting out all of those things on a car you'd owned for a couple of years and are bored with would be enough for most folk to throw the towel in and trade-up. For me I could see past those things and realise that along with the cars excellent condition and super MOT history it would be worth fixing up and keeping.

The Cambelt/water pump cost me £280.00
Air con was £60.00 (still working fine 4 weeks on)
The service is being done by me for £66.00
Tyres can wait.
Bonnet dents can stay there (not that visible due to funky shape of front end) might do something with it one day.

In my experience EVERY car you buy second hand will need something but it's all about extending your choice and managing the risk.

The best* cars to sell are the really desirable ones; pretty cars, 'premium' cars etc. I've sold 2 x BMW's in the past and each time the starry-eyed buyers neglected to take a proper look at things and bought them outright because: BMW same with any car "you've always fancied" as the appeal of the package can blind your senses.....

[GingerMagic]

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=24570

Have a word with Paul, maybe you can work something out....??

I believe it's a Monaco Blue estate, 110hdi, well maintained..

[ben10241]

I think the advice to look for a v6 is a good one. He later one (210hp) is reliable, smooth and powerful and does 30mpg at normal speeds. It tends to drink in the city but on the motorway with the standard exhaust you can't hear a thing, it's just a very nice car to do loads of miles in. A tank of fuel is £75 and it's not hard to do 450miles with it. The only downside is the cambelt but you can find some reliable people on the coupe forum that make it surprisingly affordable (and it's done properly!). Not sure about insurance I think I pay about £400 fully comp for mine.
I can't talk much about the 2.2hdi but I'm sure it's a good engine (the dw series is pretty good) but bear in mind that diesels need to be serviced more often and often cost more to maintain than a petrol as well. So it should be equivalent to the v6. If you get the chance go try one and see if you like it, as I'm sure the way it drives doesn't suit everyone (it's a powerful v6, quite torquey but I find it on the lazy side, quite hard to describe actually). Good luck with finding a new car nonetheless! B

[Doggy]

A good 2.2 HDi will get you 7-800 miles to a tankful, 12.5k service intervals, 100k / 5 year timing belt changes.
I've changed a timing belt kit / water pump / aux drive belt, tensioners etc. in half a day for < £150.

[jlmacd]

Well, been away last few days and just catching up here now. Been reading and absorbing some very good points made. And to just read

A tank of fuel is £75 and it's not hard to do 450miles with it. The only downside is the cambelt but you can find some reliable people on the coupe forum that make it surprisingly affordable (and it's done properly!). Not sure about insurance I think I pay about £400 fully comp for mine.

Pretty much the same as I was getting from my 2.0l GLX petrol. About £70 to fill and probably the same distance! I was also quite surprised, when I enquired the other day for a ballpark quote from my current insurer, to be told the V6 would be around £350 to insure (its me age, no doubt!)

But, sadly, as I already mentioned, necessity has forced me to find something fairly swiftly in order to stay mobile. So, the quest for the much desirable Coupe will have to be postponed.

Yesterday, I bought something that is, quite honestly, almost the complete opposite of everything I was looking for: a diesel and an automatic! Specifically, a 2002 2.0 HDi GLX, Auto.
The selling points were, the mileage was low for its years (64900 - tallies with the full MOT history), had just been serviced (new exhaust back box, oil/filter and tracking done), MOT'd two days ago and has had the cam belt and water pump done twice already - most recently at 57k. Same owner last ten years and all paperwork in order.
Story goes the car was owned by an elderly chap who was 'high up in the church' and only ever drove it at the weekend (presumably to work!). Given I went all the way to Kent for it, got to thinking maybe it is the Archbishop's old motor !

So, it may not be the work of rare beauty that the Coupe is but I remembered Peter's words earlier....

Perhaps not so nice looking but the 2.0. Hdi's are bombproof, the most reliable cars I have ever had.

Whilst I have no yearning to enter into the minicab trade, it is heartening to hear that it may be a reliable vehicle. Time will tell... Plus, I do believe it doesn't have a DPF - probably a blessing for a novice diesel owner like myself, at least it may lessen the learning curve a bit.

Not without its foibles, naturally. And none that wouldn't come with the age and the territory. Both front and back bumpers are in desperate need of a respray. Not damaged at all, just severely 'weathered' to the point that, the rear looks like it has been parked in a wind tunnel! Paint has mostly worn away. The front has a small section that is peeling like a leper. Neither are falling off though! Is this the sort of thing that can be restored easily enough? Think they are made of plastic -certainly looks like it. Is that a respray job or replacement, I wonder? Not a concern for the moment.

Drove well enough though. Clearly doesn't have the power of the 2.0 16v petrol (which isn't spectacular, I know) but was comfortable enough and stayed in a straight line. Again, I have precious little experience of driving a diesel and driving automatics were only ever a thing experienced with hire cars abroad. So, there is probably much to learn.

Only one concern was evident - and it may be, hopefully, unfounded. I took the oil filler cap off, with the engine running, and was dismayed to see smoke wisping out. Not bellowing out but very definitely present. It cleared but when the filler cap was briefly replaced then removed again, it was present once more. I know it is a fifteen year old car and, even at almost 65k is not a new engine but does this signify something ominous may be awry? I asked the question and got a reply along the lines of 'all diesel are prone to a bit of smoke at this age'. Seemed a plausible explanation, not a shifty response, but wondered if anyone here could shed any light on this? Again, pardon my ignorance of diesel engines..

Other than that, seemed reasonably sound. There was a bit of water present in the boot well where the spare lives. Could it be just the boot seal needs replacing? Wondered if I could swap the one from my old GLX to this. My GLX is a D8 and this a D9. Anyone know if they are the same size?

Also, hoped I may be able to swap the wheels from my old to the new, as they are nicer alloys (both the original Pug wheels for each model, I believe). I know the tyre sizes are the same but are the wheels actually interchangeable ? The D8 alloys are similar to the Opale type (think that is what they are called) and the ones on the diesel are the 7 spoke affair with the five-hole covers.(Corail?) Anyone know if this is a viable swap?

Lastly, it wasn't without a bit of humour. Pulled on the fuel flap lever to check it and - nada! Wouldn't open. Or, rather, it would - if one person pulled the lever whilst another pushed on the hinge side of the filler flap. Brilliant! Have been reading, with much mirth, on the forum today of the various methods employed by others here to overcome this little 'problem'. I have already procured a spring from a wooden clothespeg, poised for action! Watch this space...... (or I may see if I can just rob the one off the old car first)

I asked about the keys - and had to laugh out loud. There are two keys: one 'manual' and one remote. The manual will open, start and close the car by insertion in the doorlock. The 'remote' will lock the car remotely but not open it, will not unlock it by putting it in the door and, once opened using the aforementioned manual key, will not start the car! Dead transponder chip, etc etc etc. I laughed because I have been playing a similar pantomime routine for years with my old GLX, involving several keys, transponder chips, eBay purchases and a lengthy odyssey with PP2000. After a very long time I managed to eventually rebuild two complete remote keys and successfully program them to the car using pp2000. Still they would not remote lock or unlock the car. Further investigation with PP2000 unearthed that the was a fault with the deadlocking ecu. I was never able to find said device, so finally capitulated. Went back to the old fashioned way - stick the key in the door!! Works for me....

Thanks again to everyone for the invaluable support and advice here. Off down to pick up the car tomorrow morning. Hopefully, my next post won't be from the hard shoulder of the M25...... (I take that back!)

[ben10241]

Nice to know you found a car and the 2.0hdi is indeed very reliable (I had a 306 with this engine and did 180k with no problem).

[jlmacd]

Thanks Ben. Drove it back today and made it home, eventually. I don't know if it is the fact it is a diesel, or an automatic - probably more the latter - but have to say it is a bit of a disappointment after years with the 2.0 petrol. I am aware it is underpowered compared to it but wasn't aware how gutless it seems. Almost wished i had thrown the money at putting the old car back on the road at one point but, too late now. It seems to run fine so, that is the main thing, I suppose for now.

Had a proper good dig about and unearthed the inevitable myriad of niggles:

Filler cap not opening - fixed with the clothes peg spring trick. Done
Multi function display has no illumination and resets itself each time it is powered down. Ordered some 12v 1.2w capless bulbs but not found a solution to why it won't hold its settings yet
Temp gauge was dropping to zero and then back to original position several times on the journey back. Read it might be coolant sensor??

Apologies to all with the list of questions last post - I should have seen the sticky (have read it now!) regards D8/D9 parts compatibilties. I hope my questions weren't an irritation. I know now to look and read the stickies first!

On the basis of what was posted, think I will go ahead and swap the wheels and tyres from the D8 to this. The diesel has some newish but uber cheap and nasty tyres on it (3 x BCT S600 and 1 x Westlake or something which I was told has a nail in it!) - I have 4 x Michelin Cross Climates on the petrol which I am damned if I am giving to the scrappies. Also prefer the styling of the original D8 alloys to the ones on the D9. If nothing else, I also get to keep a part of the old girl too.

Can't see a lasting relationship at the moment but, grateful to be still mobile. So begins the task of getting everything functional .... and saving towards the V6!

[highlander]

Thanks Ben. Drove it back today and made it home, eventually. I don't know if it is the fact it is a diesel, or an automatic - probably more the latter - but have to say it is a bit of a disappointment after years with the 2.0 petrol. I am aware it is underpowered compared to it but wasn't aware how gutless it seems. Almost wished i had thrown the money at putting the old car back on the road at one point but, too late now. It seems to run fine so, that is the main thing, I suppose for now.

Your 2.0 HDi is probably the 90 HP version. It's essentially the same lump as the HDi 110 HP, but without the intercooler. I think the HDi 110 also has the Dual-Mass Flywheel whereas the HDi 90 has a solid flywheel. Your HDi will not have the particulate filter.

If it interests you, you can get a remap for the HDi 90 to provide around the same power as the HDi 110 has from stock. It should give the car a noticeable amount more poke, but will come at a cost.

Unless your car is an unusual colour, I bet you'll have no problems finding a good replacement front and rear bumper from a scrapper. Worth checking out eBay, too.

[jlmacd]

Thanks Highlander. All the paperwork suggests it is a 110. Ran the RAC data check and it states under the 'Engine power' that it is '109bhp' - is that not a 110?
Wondered if there is a remap for the 110 and is it worth the effort and cost.

Think the main disappointment is probably down to the way it drives being an automatic. Reminds me of a dodgem car!
Driving back it had to be floored virtually all the time on the motorway to stay at 70 or just over. There was no sense of confidence for overtaking anything.

Guess I will just have to get used to it.

[GingerMagic]

Italian tune up maybe?

[highlander]

Thanks Highlander. All the paperwork suggests it is a 110. Ran the RAC data check and it states under the 'Engine power' that it is '109bhp' - is that not a 110?
Wondered if there is a remap for the 110 and is it worth the effort and cost.

There is a remap for the HDi 110 which should take it up to around 135 HP. Bigger gains are available but not without changing other parts.

You're probably right about the gearbox being a letdown, but it doesn't sound right that you had to keep your foot mashed to the floor to keep the car at 70. That sounds like something may be broken to me, automatic or not. I'd suggest asking your friendly mechanic (assuming he's got his health back).

[trufflehunt]

Was going to say..., as said already, I think...., that in acceleration, on the 2.0 HDI it all happens when the turbo
kicks in at around 1600 rpm, and everything is over at around 3000 rpm.

However, if you're struggling to maintain 70 mph on a motorway, seems to be something adrift.
At 70 the HDI ought to be barely loping along, easy peasy, with plenty to spare.

[PeterN]

Never driven an auto but my manual estates have got plenty of go, can you actually feel the turbo coming in? should start at about 1800 rpm. The autobox will sap some power and economy of course which is one of the reasons I have never had one, also they can be dangerous for people of my age.

Peter

[jlmacd]

Interesting and heartening to hear everyone's comments - thanks chaps. As contradictory as this may sound, it would be good to believe there may be something just 'not happening'

by trufflehunt » Mon May 08, 2017 10:23 am

Was going to say..., as said already, I think...., that in acceleration, on the 2.0 HDI it all happens when the turbo
kicks in at around 1600 rpm, and everything is over at around 3000 rpm.

I can't honestly report that there is any sensation of pulling power at all. Sometimes, in initial acceleration - the equivalent of shifting up from 1st to 2nd in a manual - there is an inkling of something actually responding but, beyond that, put your foot to the floor and there is definitely nothing in the way of a positive pull. It is all completely pedestrian. It will progressively get to speed but it is a slow and gradual process. Hence my comment about being very reluctant to attempt to overtake. I tried it the once and I think the person behind was having a fit, thinking I was just trying to block his way. I was, but not intentionally, of course. I haven't attempted it since, save for if I can get a run up on dual lanes.

However, if you're struggling to maintain 70 mph on a motorway, seems to be something adrift.
At 70 the HDI ought to be barely loping along, easy peasy, with plenty to spare.

That is exactly what I am facing here: 70mph, maybe 80 with a hill and a following wind, and foot literally pressing hard to the floor. There is nothing left beyond this point.
Don't get me wrong, I have no yearning to be screaming around at 90mph, am a happy cruiser at the normal 70/80mph but it just worries me there is nothing left when you see the ubiquitous BMW/Audi hurtling up behind and there is no way of speeding up to get out of the way.
In the old 2.0 GLX petrol, I could comfortably sit on 70/80 with my foot only just resting on the juice and there was always still plenty to go. With this, to stay at 70 I have to keep the pedal on the floor (which is v. tiring too!) so have found myself mostly cruising at 50 - 60, with the entire world passing me by....

There is a remap for the HDi 110 which should take it up to around 135 HP. Bigger gains are available but not without changing other parts.

That appeals! 135bhp takes to the same as my 2.0 petrol. But put me right, I have heard tell that a remap may put you in jeopardy of failing the emissions test at the MOT - that so? Again, I have no experience with the business of remapping but would certainly be keen to learn from those have successfully done it. On the face of it, it seems a tempting prospect.

But I should walk, not run, at this point (pretty apt at the moment!). Where to start looking or the 'missing' power. From what has been said, is the turbo the obvious starting point - or something else?

Many thanks to all. You have given me renewed hope!!

[GingerMagic]

Just a thought - is there a clip on the throttle cable?
It often pings off, which leaves you with only 'part throttle' no matter how hard you plant your foot....