It seems my attempt yesterday has caused some damage
Firstly my turbo's gone. God it seems so painfully slow now and it's just got nothing under 1500rpm at all. I'm hoping it might be something easy like the little "thing" on a bracket by the suspension mount with 3 rubber tubes and a plug to the ECU coming off it, but I have no idea at all how the turbo is 'activated'. Ideas?
Also it's making a lot more noise at low revs and (dunno if this is new) it seemed like there was a lot of heat coming from under the car when I got out with the engine running to have a little peek under the bonnet. Maybe the noise is just a side-effect of not having the turbo?
I've got to go out later to change the coolant (just running on flush and water today prior to rad-welding) so I can have a short tinker before it gets too dark.
Pleeeease help!
<steve_earwig> I think this forum is more about keeping our cars going with minimal outlay than giving our cars more reason to go bang
But the problem's sorted now it seems. After re-plugging the relay box I thought "hmm this sounds better" and took it for a spin, but while it seemed to have more power than my trip to work it still wasn't as much 'oomph' as I'd expect.
Then I remembered I've got the ECU in grandad mode. Reset it this morning and OOH YEAH! I'm back on the boost! Nice dry air too so I didn't need the aircon either meaning more powah to the engine! YARRR! Economy sucked on the way to work though, but I was going a lot faster than usual ;)
I need to rig up a little button to kill power to the ECU so I can reset it without wearing out the connector. It's annoying it can't do 'super-grandad' and 'yob' without a reset but I guess they didn't design the turbo with grandad driving in mind...
I'm still really pissed off I can't do the cambelt though. I wanted it done before the drive around Germany but £200 of labour is just far, far too much
<steve_earwig> I think this forum is more about keeping our cars going with minimal outlay than giving our cars more reason to go bang
mjb wrote:I'm still really pissed off I can't do the cambelt though. I wanted it done before the drive around Germany but £200 of labour is just far, far too much
YOU can dude..... if you use the SHWARTZ..... *Cough* I meant FORCE
When you off to Germany?
Niz406
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"Some Say he can fart fire, whilst others say he can urinate rocket fuel.... all we know is he's called... The Niz"
Now, I don't know if this is any help but here are some pics of changing the timing belt and replacing it with a Gates kit with SKF flywheels and tension pulley. This is done on my D8 XU10J4R without AC.
I removed the original norwegian comments, you get the idea.
Also, the crankwheel 22mm comes off with an airpowered tool fairly easily. No need for locking actually. (Although you should) But the cams should be marked and locked as you see on the pictures. Also the old belt is marked and thiose marks are then transferred to the new belt.
Note the 19mm wheel bolt ground sqaure to fit the square hole on the tensioner pulley.
I know, this is the quick and dirty way to do it but it works.
Carl
Peugeot Sport Club Norway - Board of directors
Cruiser: '02 Peugeot 307 XS Premium Tiptr.
Racer: '98 Peugeot 406 ST 2.0
The problem that's caused me to throw in the towel is getting the crankshaft pulley off. I don't have access to air tools. I'm guessing an impact wrench might work well, but I ain't got one - just the driver :/
When you off to Germany?
End of July providing the car's still in one piece... It'll have done about 80-90k and 4 years on the belt by that time...
<steve_earwig> I think this forum is more about keeping our cars going with minimal outlay than giving our cars more reason to go bang
The problem that's caused me to throw in the towel is getting the crankshaft pulley off. I don't have access to air tools. I'm guessing an impact wrench might work well, but I ain't got one - just the driver :/
easy solution, stick it in reverse, get an assistant to stand on the brakes, then with i big bar undo the nut, how do you think i do it when the impact wrench doesnt have enough power?
Peugeot wrote:what are you worried about? we made car that lasted 10 years"..."Zat is very goode non?
how did you make a flywheel locking tool is it like the xud with a pin or can you gain access to the flywheel via a cover i didnt have a tool so just windygun and loctite when replaced crank pulley not good practice i know but always done that and none fell off!!! also why the need to replace the water pump is it down to the bearings??
jameslxdt wrote:[easy solution, stick it in reverse, get an assistant to stand on the brakes, then with i big bar undo the nut, how do you think i do it when the impact wrench doesnt have enough power?
That's pretty much what I did except I used 5th so my mate (who I had to phone up after I realised I'd just turn the engine...) would get more power on the brakes. Bad idea I guess as it's just moving the pressure from the brakes to the gearbox buy nevertheless the result was the same - the crank wasn't turning and I was putting a ludicrous amount of torque on the bolt and it just wouldn't bloody shift!
I'd off you a hand but I'm busy for the next few weekends unless one sunday is good for you like before you go ?
I'm up for that. Drop me a PM... I'm away the 14-15th July though for RIAT down in Gloucestershire
<steve_earwig> I think this forum is more about keeping our cars going with minimal outlay than giving our cars more reason to go bang
dervpower wrote:how did you make a flywheel locking tool is it like the xud with a pin or can you gain access to the flywheel via a cover i didnt have a tool so just windygun and loctite when replaced crank pulley not good practice i know but always done that and none fell off!!! also why the need to replace the water pump is it down to the bearings??
Opps sorry chap, only just seen this...
There is no locking pin you can use... as the timing hole / pin are for that only... setting the timing! It's not strong enough for undoing the crankshaft pully bolt!
YOu need some flat alloy bar... 2" by 2" I think we used... and you measure the width of the gaps... marke the depth then cut V's into the bar on one end and you go about 2.5" deep on the bar, the outer part of the bar you curve it with a file to the shape of the access point on the gearbox, it fits in there and prevents any turning of the crank.
i'll have to upload a picture so you can see it! lol
Niz406
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"Some Say he can fart fire, whilst others say he can urinate rocket fuel.... all we know is he's called... The Niz"
Nice dry air too so I didn't need the aircon either meaning more powah to the engine! YARRR! Economy sucked on the way to work though, but I was going a lot faster than usual ;)
