Always a bad point on this forum, but I'm having trouble with the rear brakes on a D8 exec saloon 2.0L turbo.
As always, the handbrake is nice and soft/spongy and I know the drum pads are well worn, but replacing them is on my list...
The trouble is the pads this time I think. The drivers side rear wheel smells and gets hot. I've had her up in the air and taken the pads out to make sure it is the footbrake, and it is. The disc spins freely without the pads in. I put them back in, made sure all the pins were in the same place and whatnot and it seemed fine. But just been for a run up the road and got home and the disc is hotter then the other side. The pads are in good nick, maybe a bit brake faded from previous owners as they ahev always squeeled, but enough on them to easily pass the MOT last month. I'm worried that leaving them binding will warp my disc on the rear which I really could do without.
MY handbrake cable snapped over x-mas, and I put a new one on, which is how I know the drum pads are well worn, and since we did that, when reversing there was a horrible vibration echoing through the back of the car. Since I have noticed the smell and the wheel getting hot, it has stopped doing that.
Is there a pressure regulator system for the rear feed which maybe has gone, or do the calipers start to seaze over time? The pads wern't anything bad to get out, and everything looked great under there, but I am worried about the heat creating problems and also the drag on my fuel consumption.
Any suggestions?
Cheers guys
Rear brakes
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Rear brakes
2.0L turbo D8 exec saloon
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steve_earwig
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Re: Rear brakes
There's two sliding sleeves on the callipers that sieze. Hold on, try a search
Unskilled meddling sin©e 2007
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Re: Rear brakes
Thanks Steve,
I've just done a search and only come up with a reply by you saying something about the callipers siezing but nothing further. Would it be in the haynes manual? and does it involve getting into the brake fluid system, as in taking the whole calliper off and then bleeding the brakes and whatnot? If so, this is starting to sound like a garage jobbie to me
Oh, in the post I found, you said something about a calliper kit, how much is this if I can't service the existing ones?
Thanks
I've just done a search and only come up with a reply by you saying something about the callipers siezing but nothing further. Would it be in the haynes manual? and does it involve getting into the brake fluid system, as in taking the whole calliper off and then bleeding the brakes and whatnot? If so, this is starting to sound like a garage jobbie to me
Oh, in the post I found, you said something about a calliper kit, how much is this if I can't service the existing ones?
Thanks
2.0L turbo D8 exec saloon
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steve_earwig
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Re: Rear brakes
Oh! I found loads. It's pretty common due to bad assembly.
It depends how siezed they are if you'll need to take the cal(l)ipers off, it sounds like yours are still moving a bit so probably not. There's two bolt holding the caliper on, one ordinary job and one Allen/socket head under a cap. There's some sort of ring on the end of the sleeve which just pushes off, the rubbers are bonded to the sleeve so you'll have to unclip it from the ring on the calliper one end and pull it through with the sleeve. Then you can make an informed decision whether they just need a quick clean up and shoving back with the grease that Pug forgot or replacing, the kit has both (i.e. a calliper's worth) in it and Pug here want about £50 for one (bastards), probably much less in the UK (can't be bothered to use Service Box ). Remember to stick the bolts back with thread lock.
If you can't push the sleeves out by hand then you'll have to take the cal... thing off, stick it in a vice and give it some grief. Do not try to undo the brake pipe without a brake pipe spanner! You'll round the fecker off with an open spanner. Stick some polythene under the reservoir cap to minimise drippage & put something like a valve cap over the end of the pipe too. When you're done you'll have to bleed the brakes of course, if you don't own an Eezibleed it's about time you did, they make things so much easier. Remember to lower the pressure in the tyre you're using, unless your wife likes you smelling of eau de brake fluid.
It depends how siezed they are if you'll need to take the cal(l)ipers off, it sounds like yours are still moving a bit so probably not. There's two bolt holding the caliper on, one ordinary job and one Allen/socket head under a cap. There's some sort of ring on the end of the sleeve which just pushes off, the rubbers are bonded to the sleeve so you'll have to unclip it from the ring on the calliper one end and pull it through with the sleeve. Then you can make an informed decision whether they just need a quick clean up and shoving back with the grease that Pug forgot or replacing, the kit has both (i.e. a calliper's worth) in it and Pug here want about £50 for one (bastards), probably much less in the UK (can't be bothered to use Service Box
). Remember to stick the bolts back with thread lock.If you can't push the sleeves out by hand then you'll have to take the cal... thing off, stick it in a vice and give it some grief. Do not try to undo the brake pipe without a brake pipe spanner! You'll round the fecker off with an open spanner. Stick some polythene under the reservoir cap to minimise drippage & put something like a valve cap over the end of the pipe too. When you're done you'll have to bleed the brakes of course, if you don't own an Eezibleed it's about time you did, they make things so much easier. Remember to lower the pressure in the tyre you're using, unless your wife likes you smelling of eau de brake fluid.
Unskilled meddling sin©e 2007
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Re: Rear brakes
Why does this not supprise meOh! I found loads. It's pretty common due to bad assembly.
By the looks of it, I might be lucky as they are still moving and pushing them apart to get the pads out seemed easy enough. I've had the other side off to do the handbrake cable, so I know the two bolts, one being an Allen key head. I hope it will be a case of cleaning and greasing then putting them back together, would copper grease be a good thing here?
I'll give it a go as soon as I get chance to get under the car, prob good friday and I've got a nice long weekend incase something does go a bit Pete Tong.
Many Thanks
2.0L turbo D8 exec saloon
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steve_earwig
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Re: Rear brakes
Hmm, that doesn't sound siezed. I can't think what else it could be, unless the bore's so worn the piston's jamming or you do indeed have some sort of pressure limiter that's gone south. See what they look like anyway and slap some jollop on there while you're at it. Copper slip's fine, high melting point grease would be ok too.Smelliot wrote:...pushing them apart to get the pads out seemed easy enough.
So, what do the pads look like? One of mine was almost new, while the other one was was almost worn out. Are the pads a good fit in the calliper? One of them's supposed to move...
Unskilled meddling sin©e 2007
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Re: Rear brakes
The pads looked fine when I took them out. Worn on both sides, both of them, good size, good fitting and everything. I was supprised on how small they were tho, I'm used to front brakes, so seeing little square pads worried me a tad. Anyways, This friday I'll get under the car and grease em up see of that helps. Since I did take them apart on sunday it has helped, the wheel doesn't get as hot now.
At some point, I will replace the pads on the rear along with the rear drum pads, but until I get paid they'll do.
I'm guessing the 'floating' pads on the rear would make a vibration noise if they were binding, so that answers that question to. Thanks again
At some point, I will replace the pads on the rear along with the rear drum pads, but until I get paid they'll do.
I'm guessing the 'floating' pads on the rear would make a vibration noise if they were binding, so that answers that question to. Thanks again
2.0L turbo D8 exec saloon
Re: Rear brakes
i had trouble with on of my rear brake binding after fitting new pads. it was corroded piston on mine, the the plating had come off just after where the dust seal sits and rust a little.
This meant when the piston was fully back for the new pads it stuck on the rust on the oil seal. I ended up go to the scappy and getting a caliper then stripping the piston out (which wasn't quite a bad, but the dust seal had been split) and fitting it into mine.
The dealers will sell you the seal kit or the caliper (£100+) but not a new piston!!
This meant when the piston was fully back for the new pads it stuck on the rust on the oil seal. I ended up go to the scappy and getting a caliper then stripping the piston out (which wasn't quite a bad, but the dust seal had been split) and fitting it into mine.
The dealers will sell you the seal kit or the caliper (£100+) but not a new piston!!
1997 Honda Prelude 2.2 VTi
Previously - 1999 406 Executive HDI
Previously - 1999 406 Executive HDI
Re: Rear brakes
I have got trouble with mine also, after fitting new disc's, pads and shoes on the rear some weeks ago, I now have what sounds like a warped disc but it's hard to tell which side. Gonna have a look this weekend if it's not to cold. I probably should have put new calpiers on when I did the brakes first time around.
Carpman
Carpman