With my car at idle i could hear some not very plesant noises!
On closer inspection i can see long strands peeling off the aux belt. These must have been flapping about and hitting the under tray and all sorts.
I need to know what air con pump i have to get the right belt.
Delphi or Sanden, can these be ID'd visually?
has anyone changed one of these belts before?
It looks a bit tight on space to do from the top so is it a case of getting the wheel off and the inner wing etc to gain access?
Is there anything i should be aware of (apart from putting the belt on the wrong way!) when doing this job?
What would be the consequences of it snapping if i were to carry on driving it?
Thanks
COlin
2.1td aux belt change
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steve_earwig
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Re: 2.1td aux belt change
I think someone already posted they got both belts, then took back the one they didn't use.
Umm, Haynes says wheel arch liner, undertray (if it's not already fallen off), slacken the bolt in the middle of the eccentric tensioner (it's the lowest pulley between the crank and p/s pump pullies), you need a 7mm square bar to turn it (I think someone said a 1/4" ratchet fits straight in there) it until the hole in it's aligned with the hole in its mounting bracket, then lock it with an 8mm bar of some sort (drill bit?), then when it's locked turn the eccentric tensioner 'til there's enough slack to get the belt off.
Hmm, it would save me a lot of typing if you went out and bought a Haynes you know.
Retensioning it seems to be a case of turning the tensioner back until the pressure's released off your 8mm drill bit, then doing up the bolt and checking your 8mm drill bit slides in and out easily after you've turned the engine over a few times.
Not changing it? Hmm, dead air con, dead p/s, flat battery and, if you're really lucky, it'll take out your cam belt and wreck your engine (admittedly I'm not sure this is just an HDi speciality).
Umm, Haynes says wheel arch liner, undertray (if it's not already fallen off), slacken the bolt in the middle of the eccentric tensioner (it's the lowest pulley between the crank and p/s pump pullies), you need a 7mm square bar to turn it (I think someone said a 1/4" ratchet fits straight in there) it until the hole in it's aligned with the hole in its mounting bracket, then lock it with an 8mm bar of some sort (drill bit?), then when it's locked turn the eccentric tensioner 'til there's enough slack to get the belt off.
Hmm, it would save me a lot of typing if you went out and bought a Haynes you know.
Retensioning it seems to be a case of turning the tensioner back until the pressure's released off your 8mm drill bit, then doing up the bolt and checking your 8mm drill bit slides in and out easily after you've turned the engine over a few times.
Not changing it? Hmm, dead air con, dead p/s, flat battery and, if you're really lucky, it'll take out your cam belt and wreck your engine (admittedly I'm not sure this is just an HDi speciality).
Unskilled meddling sin©e 2007
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Re: 2.1td aux belt change
Many thanks for the written reply steve, mach appreciated.
I wasn't suggestin not changing it i was merely thinking if it would get me to work tomorrow or not.
I have trimmed off all the loose flappy bits of belt
I have now got my belt and it looks like it will be a couple of evenings worth of work given the limited evening light we have now.
Regards
Colin
I wasn't suggestin not changing it i was merely thinking if it would get me to work tomorrow or not.
I have trimmed off all the loose flappy bits of belt
I have now got my belt and it looks like it will be a couple of evenings worth of work given the limited evening light we have now.
Regards
Colin