Welton wrote:Wonder what's happened there then? maybe if you talk crap or aren't particularly helpfull they get deducted
Don't say that, I'd be knocked down to about 50!
1996 406 1.8LX Got a bad case of hydro lock!
1996 406 Executive 2.0 Turbo XU10J2TE No longer hangin' on in there
1997 Honda CB500V
2003 Volvo V40 1.8 GDi SE killed by a nutter in a beemer 5 series
2008 Mondeo 2.0 TDCi Titanium X
"Always look on the bright side of life, dedo, dedo dedodedo"
Maybe your post count's been seasonally adjusted...
I thought I'd been quiet lately, you know, winter coming up, things to do, leaves to rake, bonfires to annoy neighbours with, roofs to paint, heated seats to fit etc etc et bleedin' cetera
The answer to your question will now appear on the right
You're welcome to meet up with me and squeeze mine soops
I'm bothered about your engine movement when you rev because this was what mine was [grammer?] doing and it's the rear engine mount for sure!
Now the mount is new it only moves a tiny bit! only saying this cos the excess movement led to the flexi down pipe fracture and the I/C hose blowing through
Low press turbo? rubbish! I've done the squeeze and rev test and the hose inflates and it does feel like a good pressure (it will open your grip) - you do have to give it a good blast though.
Cars in my care:
2021 Kia Spottage 1.6 Pez Turbo Dual Clutch Gearbox Trickery
2013 Renner Twingo - donkey work
Soops, my engine used to lurch forward towards the headlamps when I blipped the throttle, then the new rear lower mount was fitted and it no longer moves - in fact it moves no more than 3/4" now.
The only way to inspect it is to look up from underneath near the downpipe.
Cars in my care:
2021 Kia Spottage 1.6 Pez Turbo Dual Clutch Gearbox Trickery
2013 Renner Twingo - donkey work
Hi
Well you can see the reason they have put a bend in the pipe - it's to accommodate the engine rock, however, you are on the right track and the pressure in the pipe is relatively small about 7 -10psi because it is volume that's required for effective operation with just enough pressure to push the volume in but I'm not sure exactly what the wastegate regulator is set at. The main concern is that you can detect the slight drop when it's operating - you don't need to accelerate hard - just lift it up steady so it doesn't rock the engine. With that satisfied you can see where we are going. You are trying to ensure that the wastgate is regulating ok and the next is the EGR valve. The ECU takes signals from the MAF, MAP and RPM sensor to decide when to operate these two functions. By far the most attention should be focused now on what to do if the wastegate is not closing properly ( I understand it's a new Turbo so the valve should be ok) If there is a vacuum leak it is fail unsafe since the Turbo is not being regulated and the pressure will rise too high at high RPM but they must have thought this not too much of a problem in the design and it would trigger a check light - I'm not sure if it also cuts a proportion of the injection or go in to limp mode. But from this you have to use your head and work through some sort of check list. Now you know how it works you have a chance of nailing it. Stop messing about with anything else until you get assurance this part is definitely ok.
