Serpantine belt

[Geoff]

Oh what a lovely sunny day.... but the damned car (1999 2l HDi with a/c) has chewed a serpentine belt (fortunately without damage it seems) and I'm Haynes'less and need to get it fixed urgently!
I think I've worked out how to access the tensioner and the correct path for the belt - I've had a search on here, but can't find any information on tightening procedures. Could anyone help please?

Geoff

[mjb]

I only know the process for the 2.0 petrol turbo engine, but if you're lucky it might be the same:

It's got an automatic (ok, spring loaded...) tensioner. Jack the front drivers side up, take the wheel off, take the wheelarch liner off and you should see the tensioner. The XU10J2TE's has a 1/2in square hole you stick your (2 foot minimum) breaker bar in and turn anti-clockwise to release tension. There's also a small hole you can shove a screwdriver or drill bit in to lock it in place. The one on my tubby was VERY stiff with years of accumulated gunk and took about half hour to work free

HTH

[Geoff]

Thanks MJB. Mine has a spring loaded tensioner (which I've released with a spanner and cord around the suspension cap) as well and eccentric cam adjuster. The problem now is that I can't work out the correct route as the old belt was completely thrown. Following what I would consider to be the correct route is wrong - I've given to trying with the half of the old belt as it's more pliable and easier to flex in this weather. Looking from the right hand side of the car, I've gone around the top the the crank pulley, under the tensioner, around the PAS pump, down to the Alternator, back to the eccentric pulley, out to the a/c pulley and back to the crank. Can anyone else help or point me at some pictures please?

[Geoff]

Haa! Think I've cracked it thanks to this picture:



I'll let you know in case anyone else is ever in the same position.

[Doggy]

Mjb's right, but the tensioner on the HDi has a hex for a 15mm spanner & can be a real pig to unload, you'll never do it without someting on the end of the spanner. Once you have the wheelarch liner off, you'll see that one of the idlers has is eccentrically mounted and can be adjusted to give you the basic tension, with the automatic gubbins doing the rest. You can't set the tesion without one of these mystical guages in SEEM units according to Haynes, but the auto tensioner is preset & you can determine the rest for yourself with the eccentric idler. Think you need a 8mm allen key to loosen it & a 6mm square key to hold it while you tighten it up. I would start slackish & tighten it if you get any belt squeal. Run the engine for a few minutes, then turn on all the electric load you can , a/c compressor & work the steering with car stopped - if the belt can handle that it's tight enough.

Luck

Doggy

[Geoff]

Thanks for the information.

It is as you say Doggy - I removed the ECU to allow me to break the tensioner with an offset ring spanner then tied the other end off on the top of the suspension. I jacked it (yes and used axle stands) to get to the bottom idler which was quicker than removing the lining. Everything went together a treat but...... the belt is being thrown off the PAS pulley (twice now). The belt is getting marked by the tensioner along the same line that the old one came apart, so it looks to me like the tensioner may be worn. Has anyone had any experience of belt chewing?

TIA

Geoff

[mjb]

think there's been a few instances of the PAS pulley needing replacement, try doing a search on the forum for it...

[Welly]

Has anyone had any experience of belt chewing

mbell666 on here had trouble where the belt got wound up around the bottom pulley and snapped the cambelt

[Geoff]

Has anyone had any experience of belt chewing

mbell666 on here had trouble where the belt got wound up around the bottom pulley and snapped the cambelt

I'd better look on the bright side then.

Looks like it's the tensioner bearings running very rough - tempted to drift bearings out and overhaul, but haven't got time so new one on order.

[Doggy]

I had one of the idlers break up, then it threw the belt, but fortunately did no other harm. Just a drive home with no power steering / alternator - fortunately on a summer evening so easy enough. I wound up get a kit comprising 2 x idlers, tensioner & belt - think it was about £35, but this was for an Hdi 90 without a/c.

[Geoff]

New tensioner pulley, same problem.

New idler pulley, same problem.

Eventually worked out how to get tensioner out (not difficult unless you've got 50 year old eyesight). One hex bolt and the problem was apparent - the plastic spacer between the two halves has worn through on one side making for rough operation as the casings are rubbing and skewing the pulley wheel over to one side. £30 from EuroCarParts tomorrow.

[Geoff]

I'm pleased to say that replacing the tensioner has cured the problem - no more belt rejection.

Thanks to everyone to offered help and advice.

[poddack]

I've just had the same problem today, the garage which replaced it last time can look at it first, then I'll possibly have to do the same, belt, idler and tensioner.

[Geoff]

The tensioner unit from EuroCarParts was £30.99 and included the pulley wheel.