It's Hydrolock, never heard of hydraulice!
If you got it to turn over without removing the glow plugs the cylinders probably weren't completely full of water and it shot steam out of the exhaust when you got it started. Trouble is the pistons wouldn't be able to travel the full stroke if there is water in the bores hence bending the conrods
1996 406 1.8LX Got a bad case of hydro lock!
1996 406 Executive 2.0 Turbo XU10J2TE No longer hangin' on in there
1997 Honda CB500V
2003 Volvo V40 1.8 GDi SE killed by a nutter in a beemer 5 series
2008 Mondeo 2.0 TDCi Titanium X
"Always look on the bright side of life, dedo, dedo dedodedo"
DaiRees wrote:What would be the effect of just removing the intake hose from the filter box?
The same effect as those fools who put conical air filters on and don't bother to enclose them with a cold air feed - a fair drop in performance caused by much less dense hot air. In fact the performance drop would be quite substantial as the air being forced past the air box hole would actually be trying to draw air OUT of the air box...
Wonder if there's enough room around the grille/slam panel to modify into an air scoop... that'd be a worthwhile upgrade for the more powerful 406s if someone could fab one, along with a much bigger air box
<steve_earwig> I think this forum is more about keeping our cars going with minimal outlay than giving our cars more reason to go bang
What about re-routing the intake hose so that it's nearer the top of the bay Matt?
1996 406 1.8LX Got a bad case of hydro lock!
1996 406 Executive 2.0 Turbo XU10J2TE No longer hangin' on in there
1997 Honda CB500V
2003 Volvo V40 1.8 GDi SE killed by a nutter in a beemer 5 series
2008 Mondeo 2.0 TDCi Titanium X
"Always look on the bright side of life, dedo, dedo dedodedo"
You want to be drawing the air from in front of the radiator though, otherwise you'd be pulling hot air in. I'm gonna see if I can re-route an intake pipe in front of the top of the radiator using that flexible ducting stuff.
You could try to keep the ducting in a slight downwards angle to allow any excess water to drain back out of the bottom again? On the 205 and 309GTi it takes the air from a small gap above the radiator, and then feeds it at a slight angle up and into the airbox, so theoretically it *should* work. As the airbox is quite high on the 406, it shouldn't be too much of a problem. That said, leaving the ducting in place and replacing the air-box with an aftermarket filter (i.e. K&N) would solve the water ingress issue as there wouldn't be the sealed circuit to suck the water up, so all you'd get up there would be the water forced up through the intake, but in the dry you'd still get a supply of cold air to the filter so no loss of power. I think I may well have a play around next weekend and see what I can come up with.
If you're lucky nipper then your engine might recover from it's ordeal and maybe the injectors are just a bit upset at the moment but if your unlucky then maybe the a big end bearing has failed under the cranking stress or even water has been forced past a ring or two and cracked the ring(s) ?
Cars in my care:
2021 Kia Spottage 1.6 Pez Turbo Dual Clutch Gearbox Trickery
2013 Renner Twingo - donkey work
Mate put a Bimmer through a puddle and the cat split (not sure if a td's gets that hot tho)
I had a look on Perverts Sox to see if there was anything different fitted to rough terrain veahickles but no. However, I did notice the end of the inlet seems to point all over the place, dependant on engine. The other thing is, it seems to go though (under, over??) the chassis rail, then turns back on itself, so it looks as though the entrance is much higher than the chassis rail. I suppose I should take the wheel liner off and see (yeah, right) but maybe the problem is that scoop below the bumper, it collects water and forces it into the wheel arch and the liner forces it up and into the intake
From: Longintooth
To: nipper76
Hi
If water did get by the filter it would end up in the lower pipe to the intercooler and create a water block where by air has to pass through the water in big bubbles - just remove the lower pipe and let it out. It is unlikely to have got any higher up he intercooler so you may be lucky.
Regards
John
That may explain why the was tons off steam comming from the intercooler / rad area for a long period of time.
oakey dokey, im sat out here wile the warms up, just emptyd the old oil, put sum cheap stuff in with some engine flush and she smoking like a trooper. Other than a leakage test, how would i know the rings had gone? The oil filter stank like wotz comming out my exhaust, and air cums out my dipstick hole (is it supposed to? ) in pulses i guess. . . . Itz blue ish smoke and theirz loads of it. Cheerz peeps
You'll have excess crankcase pressure if the rings are cracked - it'll be blowing out the dipstick and upto the head.
I was only guessing but it seems a failure point if you try forcing water past the rings with no lubrication - someone like Longintooth will be more helpfull with your tests though.
Cars in my care:
2021 Kia Spottage 1.6 Pez Turbo Dual Clutch Gearbox Trickery
2013 Renner Twingo - donkey work
I was tempted to take a shortcut down a slightly flooded road the other day but remembered a BMW I had seen on that show 'the garage'. I think it was the 1st series, anyway if i remember right, one of the mechanics had driven through a big puddle and sucked a pile of water in, and the pressure from the water being compressed caused an exhaust valve to snap off and it got wedged in the head. His engine was a right off because it cracked the head i think.
Maybe one or two of yours have been bent. Just a thought. Oh and when they did change the engine, there was still a pile of smoke, however this was because there was water lying in the exhaust system. Best of luck with her.