Rear wheel bearings
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Re: Rear wheel bearings
I've always used a pin punch or a bolt as a drift, never failed yet! May be worth taking a dremel to the pins to clean them up a bit; may help shifting them. Either that or get a small blowlamp on the caliper around the pin holes.
1996 406 1.8LX Got a bad case of hydro lock!
1996 406 Executive 2.0 Turbo XU10J2TE No longer hangin' on in there
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1996 406 Executive 2.0 Turbo XU10J2TE No longer hangin' on in there

1997 Honda CB500V
2003 Volvo V40 1.8 GDi SE killed by a nutter in a beemer 5 series
2008 Mondeo 2.0 TDCi Titanium X
"Always look on the bright side of life, dedo, dedo dedodedo"
Re: Rear wheel bearings
If the calipers are that badly seized would'nt it be bettor to replace them even if it's scrapyard jobs, in my espeariance once thay've caroded to the point that you can't move them without great force they will not move freely again.
You can replace the slider pins (kit from peugeot) if the rest of the calipers are ok
You can replace the slider pins (kit from peugeot) if the rest of the calipers are ok
406 2.1TD GLX estate
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- steve_earwig
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Re: Rear wheel bearings
Make sure you're pushing the pins the right way...
Unskilled meddling sin©e 2007
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Re: Rear wheel bearings
Spray WD40 all around the seized bits and leave them for a while to soak in the fluid.If there is a bit of pin sticking out, clobber it with a short 1/2 inch socket bar and hammer, then use a pin punch or something that fits the pin.
Re: Rear wheel bearings
Part 442760 PAD SPRING KIT £16.05
HOW MUCH?!?!?! 2 small straight bits of metal and a bit of bent wire
Think I'll just get some sandpaper
Thinking of getting a new pair of brake pipe brackets+clips (Clip = 481419, Coupe brackets=4814S3 and 4814S4) considering after 15 minutes of hammering I couldn't get the existing ones free, so I'm a bit limited in how far I can move the calliper... only about £4 for the pair of sets
HOW MUCH?!?!?! 2 small straight bits of metal and a bit of bent wire

Thinking of getting a new pair of brake pipe brackets+clips (Clip = 481419, Coupe brackets=4814S3 and 4814S4) considering after 15 minutes of hammering I couldn't get the existing ones free, so I'm a bit limited in how far I can move the calliper... only about £4 for the pair of sets
<steve_earwig> I think this forum is more about keeping our cars going with minimal outlay than giving our cars more reason to go bang
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Re: Rear wheel bearings
Now my keyboard works againsteve_earwig wrote:Make sure you're pushing the pins the right way...

I wasn't sure if the calipers were different to the normal ones, thinking there must be something different to compliment the mighty Brembos. Now Service Box is playing ball again I see they're the standard jobbies. So, breakers, breakers, breakers for the pins etc. I couldn't undo the pipe clamps either but I found it unnecessary, just move them a bit and support. Loads of WD as Jasper says, might be an idea to spray them now and then attack them at the weekend so it gets a chance to do it's magic. Parallel pin punches are the best, an old nail just isn't as good

If the sliders are stuck you'll almost certainly have to take the calipers off I'm afraid. It doesn't take long though, including bleeding (you have an eezibleed, yes?) and makes trying to shift the damn things in situ a joke.
The tiny boots are as flimsy as feck and easy to tear



You should get rid of the lip on the disk really, the last time I did it on the D8 I couldn't be asked with doing it nicely so I took my disk cutter to it, they sounded a bit rough for a couple of weeks but now they're fine. You'll probably find however that one side of the disk has corroded, you'll have to take that as you find it and see if there's enough meat left to re-use the buggers.
What's your problem with the drums?
Anyway, have some pics:









Unskilled meddling sin©e 2007
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Re: Rear wheel bearings
ooo I've got the same screwdrivers
On the offside (didn't tackle the nearside last night as I ran out of sunlight) the calliper seems to move quite happily, so It's not seized, just the pads... the outer one of which needed some serious persuasion to detach from the calliper... I'm going to grab a set of pads from eurocarparts/gsf at lunch.
Is there anything holding the pins in, other than the little cotter pins? Why aren't these designed like the non-brembo fronts, where you just need to undo a bolt and flip the outer bit up... :/
As for getting rid of the lip, sod that
I'll replace the discs and shoes in the coming month, and besides, I don't have access to much electricity when working on the car, and then only until the battery dies 
By the way I recommend these battery-powered starter thingies - http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_165719 - It works as a great portable 12/240v power source, and being a lead-acid battery it can happily deliver large currents in bursts. Saves that sinking feeling I got from running a halogen lamp off the cars cigarette lighter socket for extended periods. Also this annoying D9 economy mode pain in the arse...

On the offside (didn't tackle the nearside last night as I ran out of sunlight) the calliper seems to move quite happily, so It's not seized, just the pads... the outer one of which needed some serious persuasion to detach from the calliper... I'm going to grab a set of pads from eurocarparts/gsf at lunch.
Is there anything holding the pins in, other than the little cotter pins? Why aren't these designed like the non-brembo fronts, where you just need to undo a bolt and flip the outer bit up... :/
As for getting rid of the lip, sod that


By the way I recommend these battery-powered starter thingies - http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_165719 - It works as a great portable 12/240v power source, and being a lead-acid battery it can happily deliver large currents in bursts. Saves that sinking feeling I got from running a halogen lamp off the cars cigarette lighter socket for extended periods. Also this annoying D9 economy mode pain in the arse...

<steve_earwig> I think this forum is more about keeping our cars going with minimal outlay than giving our cars more reason to go bang
- steve_earwig
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Re: Rear wheel bearings
Nothing else, just the corrosion.
You could always get one of those 12v sockets on fly leads with crocodile clips to go on the battery for your light.
You could always get one of those 12v sockets on fly leads with crocodile clips to go on the battery for your light.
Unskilled meddling sin©e 2007
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Re: Rear wheel bearings
...and bring back the fear of flattening the car's battery?steve_earwig wrote:You could always get one of those 12v sockets on fly leads with crocodile clips to go on the battery for your light.


<steve_earwig> I think this forum is more about keeping our cars going with minimal outlay than giving our cars more reason to go bang
Re: Rear wheel bearings
Tried the other side today, after getting a new set of pads from eurocarparts (£12inc!)
The 16mm bolt holding the caliper on was REALLY stuck. Struggled even with the 2 foot breaker bar
Nevertheless it came free in the end. Unlike the pins.
Basically the pins are now spread all over the edge of the calliper, the metal they're made of is too soft to take a good hammering
So I have no idea how to get these things out. Any ideas? I'm truly out of ideas now.
At least I got to copper slip up the pins and pads... Which made another minor improvement. I can at least hear the engine now over a few thousand rpm...
The 16mm bolt holding the caliper on was REALLY stuck. Struggled even with the 2 foot breaker bar

Basically the pins are now spread all over the edge of the calliper, the metal they're made of is too soft to take a good hammering
So I have no idea how to get these things out. Any ideas? I'm truly out of ideas now.
At least I got to copper slip up the pins and pads... Which made another minor improvement. I can at least hear the engine now over a few thousand rpm...
<steve_earwig> I think this forum is more about keeping our cars going with minimal outlay than giving our cars more reason to go bang
- Captain Jack
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Re: Rear wheel bearings
Drill them out?
2003 - 2008: 1998 Peugeot 406 2.1 TD 110bhp LX Saloon
2008 - 2009: 2004 Honda Accord 2.2 CDTI 136bhp Executive Saloon
2009 - 2013: 2002 Peugeot 406 2.0 HDI 110bhp Executive Saloon
2013 - 2021: 2007 Peugeot 407 2.2 HDI 170bhp Executive Saloon (mapped to 213bhp
)
2021 - ????: 2016 Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCi 180bhp Titanium
2008 - 2009: 2004 Honda Accord 2.2 CDTI 136bhp Executive Saloon
2009 - 2013: 2002 Peugeot 406 2.0 HDI 110bhp Executive Saloon
2013 - 2021: 2007 Peugeot 407 2.2 HDI 170bhp Executive Saloon (mapped to 213bhp

2021 - ????: 2016 Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCi 180bhp Titanium
Re: Rear wheel bearings
Have you got news pins ready to fit?
Gently knock the pads in and out putting stress on the pins, without damaging the caliper, keep spraying the WD40 and tapping the pads in and out, might eventually free them off, then you can cut off the damaged ends or file them off so you can knock them out, needs patience.
Failing all that, cut the pins off either side of the pads with a hacksaw blade, knock out the pads, then cut the pins back to the caliper, then drill the pins out.
Gently knock the pads in and out putting stress on the pins, without damaging the caliper, keep spraying the WD40 and tapping the pads in and out, might eventually free them off, then you can cut off the damaged ends or file them off so you can knock them out, needs patience.
Failing all that, cut the pins off either side of the pads with a hacksaw blade, knock out the pads, then cut the pins back to the caliper, then drill the pins out.
Re: Rear wheel bearings
I was hoping to just take some emery cloth to the old ones then go against Peugeot dealer practices and actually use some copper slip when putting them back. I'm thinking these are beyond saving now though so that's another £40 I've got to throw at this f*cking carjasper5 wrote:Have you got news pins ready to fit?

Patience ain't too forthcoming when you've only got 2 hours tops between leaving the office and sunsetGently knock the pads in and out putting stress on the pins, without damaging the caliper, keep spraying the WD40 and tapping the pads in and out, might eventually free them off, then you can cut off the damaged ends or file them off so you can knock them out, needs patience.

The outer pads are now free on both sides and move about easily, but the inner pads move, but not too easily. Moving them about isn't going to be putting much stress on the pins at all now.
I've been trying to belt the pins in both directions, but there's really no movement at all
That's where I snap the drill bit and end up with a long walk isn't it?Failing all that, cut the pins off either side of the pads with a hacksaw blade, knock out the pads, then cut the pins back to the caliper, then drill the pins out.

What's the betting the dealers don't have any pins in stock?
<steve_earwig> I think this forum is more about keeping our cars going with minimal outlay than giving our cars more reason to go bang
Re: Rear wheel bearings
Factors should stock those pins fairly cheaply. Nothing special about them, those rear brakes are common to lots of cars.
I know they are a pain when they start like this.
I know they are a pain when they start like this.
Re: Rear wheel bearings
Cheers, I'll try the usual suspects (eurocarparts, gsf, a few independents) tomorrow. Might pop to B&Q too and see if I can get a suitably small punch and a countersink drill bitjasper5 wrote:Factors should stock those pins fairly cheaply. Nothing special about them, those rear brakes are common to lots of cars.
Yeah I'm just getting extremely frustrated there's so much needing to be fixed on this car, and that I'm not winning... just doing my back in and cutting my hands to shreds on the remains of a beer bottle some t**t decided to smash in my streetI know they are a pain when they start like this.

<steve_earwig> I think this forum is more about keeping our cars going with minimal outlay than giving our cars more reason to go bang