Project HaeThere! (Coupé restoration)

[mjb]

I got the brake cleaner

C'mon, surely you can tell me how to do shoes in under 4 hours?

[teamster1975]

Crikey, what a 'mare Matt
When you're re-assembling it all fit the cable bracket, spring & shoes together first; keep it all under tension so it doesn't fly apart and fit it to the hub; then fit the adjuster, put the allen bolts back in and fit the spring to the adjuster. It's a hell of a lot easier to do, that spring on the cable side is so bloody tight I found it next to impossible fitting it with the shoes on the hub already.
45 minutes per wheel, tops

[mjb]

This is the old disc that I had to put back on last night. If bits look strangely three dimensional, that's because they are - it's not just a trick of the light, there really are bits sticking out that much You should see the state of the new pads I put on Sunday - they're ruined already That's why I bought cheapies, and I've got a set of decents in the boot ready to go on the new disc.

Wish I didn't have to put that disc on over my new shoes though

I'd like to remind everyone that a main dealer decided to skim these to "stop brake squeal". With what, a sodding chisel?!?



MET Orifice says the weather should be ok tonight. Too foggy up here to tell at the moment

[jasper5]

Ok, well, you may not like my way of doing these, but I find it much easier to remove the hub first.

Assemble the shoes as a unit, fasten one shoe to the backplate, stretch the other shoe over the other side and fasten it down.

Replace hub, tighten nut and fit end cap.

As I said before, mark where the adjuster is so that you can easily locate it when you turn the disc.

Work the handbrake a few times to settle the shoes, then tighten the adjuster as tight as it goes, then click it back a notch at a time until you can turn the disc easily, but with a slight drag.Adjust the cable to suit.

ps, you did slacken the cable before trying to fit the shoes? If not, then you must slacken it before you adjust the shoes.

Don't worry about having put that horrible disc over the new shoes, just get some sandpaper and smooth off the shoes before you fit the new disc/drum.

[mjb]

Ok, well, you may not like my way of doing these, but I find it much easier to remove the hub first.

That would involve buying a puller and a new pair of hubs...

ps, you did slacken the cable before trying to fit the shoes? If not, then you must slacken it before you adjust the shoes.

As in the adjuster between the 2 rear wheels? Nah because it's rusted solid. Tried to adjust it the other week but my spanner just ended up rounding the nut as it disintegrated. Could really do with a new set of handbrake cables but it'll have to wait until I have a garage or at least more sunlight hours

Don't worry about having put that horrible disc over the new shoes, just get some sandpaper and smooth off the shoes before you fit the new disc/drum.

I'm not concerned about contamination, just the huge chunks that I can hear the discs taking out of them - same with the pads I fitted on Sunday - the outside one's rounded hub-side, but the inside one has been cut down to a couple of mm thickness at the hub end with half the material gone so they've gone wedge-shaped in just 2 days

[jasper5]

There is another adjuster at the handbrake lever end in the car, at least there is on mine.

The handbrake shoes will not get the same hammer as the front pads, the shoes will be fine.

You won't need a puller, or new hubs, they should pull off by hand.

[steve_earwig]

You should still renew the nut (says HBoL).

The disks that came with my D8 looked a lot like that, I had them skimmed and they did for another year until I could be bothered to splash out on some shiney new ones

[jasper5]

Renewing the nut would be better than spending ages messing with the shoes, it only takes 2 minutes and can be done later.

[mjb]

If I EVER see another brake I'll scream. Today was 5 hours replacing one set of shoes and 2 disc+pad combinations. Those shoes are INFURIATING!!!

It's still not sorted either The offside disc went on fine and the handbrake adjusted wonderfully. It still grinds a bit though. The nearside however... Got the disc on and it wouldn't turn easily at all even without the pads in. It took 26 notches on the adjuster for it (the adjuster) to go tight so not wanting to go any longer without a handbrake I took it tight then backed it off 6 notches. The hub (which I couldn't pull or lever out) turned fine without the disc though. Since it was dark I carried on and put everything together and took it for a ride.

The noise is still there! At speed it's a "warbling" sound. Doesn't change when I jam the handbrake on although doing so slows me down nicely

WTF's going on? I'm so close to throwing a wheel wrench at the damn car as hard as I can

[teamster1975]

Is there any noise when you spin the rear wheels now Matt?

[mjb]

Aye. Offside is a mild grinding/ringing which'll probably clear up soon once the pads have bedded in and the calliper's gotten used to being where it is, nearside well the nearside is bloody stiff to turn...

I must have put the shoes on wrong, but I'm so f*cking sick of those things I don't really want to go there

[Welly]

m - those Federal tyres are shyte!!

I've just removed a brand new Federal that was on the back of the Volvo because of the noise - like a woo-woo-woo sound.

Cheap tyres.......Argggggggggghhhhhhh

Maybe dong some tyre swapping around to test?

[eoin27]

Firestone Firehawks

Grip City
Population: Me

[mjb]

Maybe dong some tyre swapping around to test?

Did you not see the hideous inside wear? I'm not putting expensive rubber on there until that's fixed!

Besides, I'm struggling for money at the moment, this coupe's turned out to be a hell of a lot more expensive than I intended

[Captain Jack]

Bloody hell, Matt. One thing after another. The money you spent on buying and fixing could have been spent on a better example methinks But if you manage to get it all fixed then it should last you another 200k miles - there would be nothing left to replace