Clutch hydraulics failure

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mjb
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Clutch hydraulics failure

Post by mjb »

OK can someone check my logic on this?

Changed the clutch, clutch release forks MAY have been unmovable
Used excessive force to put the slave cylinder back in instead of bleeding some fluid off
Clutch pedal had no resistance until half way down, then it was solid
Pushed the clutch pedal EXCESSIVELY HARD a couple of times
<something>
Bled the slave
Very little resistance in the pedal at all other than a slight sponginess at the end of travel
Replaced the slave cylinder, was hard to bleed needing the bleed nipple open half a turn instead of the usual 1/8th turn, otherwise pumping the pedal by hand did nothing
Finally bled, closed the bleed nipple correctly (2 spanner method), put paper towel under the slave
Very little resistance in the pedal, no fluid leaking anywhere
Pedal is attached to the master cylinder

My master cylinder's shot ain't it?

0000218218 MASTER CYLINDER 31.12 GBP 35.79 GBP 35.79 GBP
0000215615 SEAL 1.52 GBP 1.75 GBP 1.75 GBP

Almost certainly not going to be able to get hold of it until at least Friday and I can't even put the subframe back on until it's fitted :evil:
<steve_earwig> I think this forum is more about keeping our cars going with minimal outlay than giving our cars more reason to go bang
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mjb
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Re: Clutch hydraulics failure

Post by mjb »

I'm an idiot. It could also be there's nothing to push against!

*gets changed, swims to the garage again*
<steve_earwig> I think this forum is more about keeping our cars going with minimal outlay than giving our cars more reason to go bang
jasper5
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Re: Clutch hydraulics failure

Post by jasper5 »

I have a feeling all these problems are connected with the release fork/bearing.

The master cylinder was ok before, it should be ok now.

I would like to pull the box out again and have a look what is going on.

If you remember what the Haynes said....the clutch will not work if the fork / bearing is not fitted correctly.
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mjb
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Re: Clutch hydraulics failure

Post by mjb »

Decided to pull the gearbox off and have a look :shock: Knowing what I know now about the gearbox's weight distribution, I chucked a nice pile of wood between the jack and the box which worked perfectly! Just slid the box out (the engine's still severely lowered and tilted) and pretty much just slid it back! While it was off I took out the release bearing to have a look at it and figured out what's wrong - that circular clip. Looking at the old clutch it was WAY too loose so it wasn't fitting through the pressure plate. Took it off, bent it back to a circle so the ~7mm gap was reduced to ~2mm, put it back on, shoved everything back together, cracked the fork down which really came back a long way, and as soon as I started to bleed the clutch I knew I'd got it 8) I've operated the clutch (I presume) via the pedal!

OK it's spongy as hell because even going one pump between fluid refilling I couldn't stop the air from getting in, but as soon as the car's back in one piece I can get the o/s on the ground and the n/s another 4" or so higher, which should do the job nicely.

SO RELIEVED!!!

I'm determined to be driving it tomorrow night now. If I can scav a lift home from work I'll be setting a target of driving to the chippy before it shuts at 10pm. 4.5 hours. Tough target, but the past 11 days I've been doing crazy sh*t so why not? :lol: I'm just sick of walking/riding/bussing to work :lol:
<steve_earwig> I think this forum is more about keeping our cars going with minimal outlay than giving our cars more reason to go bang
jasper5
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Re: Clutch hydraulics failure

Post by jasper5 »

I had a feeling it was that clip causing all the trouble.

I'm afraid that was my fault, I should not have fitted it into the pressure plate before I fitted the clutch.

I owe you for a slave cylinder, I'll fix that steering rack gaiter F.O.C. to compensate you if you like.

What a bloody stupid type of clutch arrangement.

Sorry :cry:
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