Guys I have just picked up a 2004 53 PEUGEOT 406 EXECUTIVE HDI 2.2 (136) and I was told my a mechanically minded mate of mine that they have a lot of common faults is this true?
If so what are the common faults and are they expensive to repair?
Should I keep my current 2000 X 406 HDI 110 or keep the PEUGEOT 406 EXECUTIVE HDI (136)? Which is more realiable and worth while to keep
The only significant difference between a 110 & 136, in reliability terms, is that the latter is fitted with a diesel particle filter, (aka FAP) and associated diesel additive tank. This system eliminates virtually all soot emissions, but the additive needs replenished periodically an the filter will block in time. Worst case scenario, (having the dealer do both), £500 - £700. Cleaning the filter, rather than replacing is a practical DIY job, or fit a cheaper after market replacement for about £150. Additive, AFAIK, is still dealer only and will cost about £160 on its own. How often it needs attention varies wildly with how it's driven, (they don't like constant urban motoring), but 50 - 80k intervals seem the norm.
The general view is this makes these cars unattractive to most people. I've got one, which I deliberately choose, knowing all of the above. I have removed the FAP from mine and am working my way through the resultant issues. It's frustrating at the moment but I believe I will win in the end.
I personally believe the 136 is a much better car, it's smoother, quieter and has impressive torque with good economy. The best mile-eater I've owned in 30+ years.
2002 HDi 2.2 Exec Estate, (2008-12) (wonderful)
2003 HDi 2.2 6-speed Exec Estate (2012-19) (also a gem)
2009 Citroen C5 2.0 HDi VTR+ Estate (godawful heap)
2008 BMW E91 330i touring (great fun - murdered by a reversing SUV)
2007 BMW E91 325i touring (slower smoother quieter)
Apart from Doggy's excellent response, the only issue I can think of is that when changing the cambelt you should ideally change the cam-chain too (this drives the second camshaft of the 16 valve head arrangement) and the chains' sprockets/guides can wear a bit over time. The chain is short and contained in the head/rocker cover.
There's no other earthly reason why you should shy away from a 136 and later it can be remapped to 165+bhp (but you might want an upgraded clutch for that).
Cars in my care:
2021 Kia Spottage 1.6 Pez Turbo Dual Clutch Gearbox Trickery
2013 Renner Twingo - donkey work
The only other thing that springs to mind is it gives the tank a squirt of additive every time the fuel cap is removed, so it's best to run it all the way down before filling up. We had a young lady on here a while back whose practise of giving it a quick top-up on a regular basis resulted in the engine not wanting to run on a 50'% mixture of additive and diesel...
Again, the main thing is the FAP. try looking for a service history to see when the additive has been topped up last. The previous owner could have been savvy to thee FAP issue also. From my own experience, the 136 (DW12) is by far and away a better engine than the 110 and 90 (DW10). You have constant turbo even past 3k revs and this engine can easily be remapped to 170bhp but, as they guys pointed out, the clutch might not take the abuse. Realistically its a solid engine. I'd like to know what you think it drives like in the 406 as I've only driven this engine in the 607
2000 D9 Coupé 2.0 SE EW10J4 Scarlet Red - 5 litres of oil gone in 500 miles!!! Time for a new coupe me thinks
