Indicator stalk problem

[steve_earwig]

Stretch that spring

[johnboy]

is that whats wrong then? have u got any pics of the offending part?

[johnboy]

would it not be the opposite and the spring stretching when the indicator returns to its normal position? if the springs too slack maybe thats why its not taught enough to stay in a neutral postion if that makes sense?

[steve_earwig]

is that whats wrong then? have u got any pics of the offending part?

9th pic down

[pop]

97 406 TD GLX with all the aforementioned indicator problems.
I found a way to modify the famously flawed Nieman indicator / light switch so it works properly – probably better than it was when new, and it isn’t likely to give any more trouble. Took about a couple of hours total from starting to remove switch, figuring out what to do with it, doing it and refitting. Reckon it could probably be done in an hour with knowing what to do. (sorry no photos).
If you’re handy, you can do this – anything to beat the stealer…just don’t try to rush it. And £70 an hour really feels great!!
Remove the switch from the car (steering wheel fully lowered and pulled out to max) and take to a nice brightly lit, clean place.(takes about 5 mins to take out, steering wheel doesn't need to come off - take care unplugging the 2 connector blocks)
With a very small flat-bladed screwdriver and blunt blade (careful) remove bottom section of switch – be careful not to break the casing when prising out past the locating lugs – 2 lugs each side There’s nothing to fall out so no worries
Now remove top section of switch - 3 lugs each side – again there’s nothing to fall out, but be careful with the indicator auto return mechanism which stays with the top section of the switch.
The stalk is now loose so be careful with it – it’s attached to the centre section of the switch with wires which you don’t want to break. Look into the end of the centre section of the switch opposite to stalk end and you’ll see the indicator contacts – 1 long one, 2 short ones. In the middle of these will be the remains of what probably was the plastic centring mechanism – never seen a good one so not sure what it should look like. Doesn’t matter anyway, because whatever is remaining needs to be gently cut out , leaving a flat surface.
This done, get a 1.5mm approx drill and drill a recess about 1.5 mm deep dead centre between the contacts – this will be the new centring location for the indicator spring-loaded spud you see hanging out at the end of the stalk.
Now the two single contacts need to be filed back from the centre about 2 mm or so to give adequate clearance from the indicator spud when it’s in it’s centre position. The contacts can be pushed out from the back using long nosed pliers – set switch body upside down on the worktop, firm grip on leg with pliers, gentle pressure downwards so as not to damage anything when the contact pushes out – you don’t want to bend or kink them
File back the edges which would be facing centre with a fine file, bevelling away from centre so the indicator spud will ride up over them smoothly. I cleaned where the contacts came out of and applied a single drop of superglue to the top of the hole before pushing the contacts back in to place. Pull the contacts fully in to place from the back using the long nosed pliers. Remove any excess super glue from the legs by scraping them lightly with a blade. When both are back in, refit the bottom part of the switch and check the contact legs are straight and in line with the others so there won’t be any problems when refitting the connector blocks later. Apply a little light grease to the legs – helps contact and reassembly.
Tidy up any rough edges on the indicator spud with a fine file giving it the best chance to ride up onto the contacts smoothly. (can be gently pulled out with the long nosed pliers, but watch the spring). Push back into place when finished and remember the spring.
Clean out the switch and grease the indicator contacts, before refitting the top part of the switch. Take care with the auto centring mechanism – it has to be pushed in to locate properly whilst snapping the top section into place. Also ensure the stalk itself is correctly located – it has to rest in its socket properly and the gear at the end has to mesh with its counterpart in the switch properly.
When the switch is properly assembled, it may be slightly tight the first time the indicators are selected – however after a few actions left and right, it will bed in and free up. You’ll notice that the general action and centre positioning is much more positive . If after assembly, the stalk seems to be very tight to operate, don’t force it – take off the top section again , try operating the stalk with the top section not fully snapped home and when it seems OK, snap it home. (this is probably the trickiest bit – need about 4 hands).
Refit to car and check all normal operations are working.
Hope this helps someone…

[johnboy]

HIya, well done on fixing yours!

Unfortunately the D9 Mk2 406's are abit more difficult!

[sirwiggum]

HIya, well done on fixing yours!

Unfortunately the D9 Mk2 406's are abit more difficult!

Amen to that.

[petedes]

I have the same problem on my 52 plate rapier, it's a taxi with 212000 miles on the clock and it's been like it for 5 years.

I have managed to live with it by using a small piece of fine foam cut from a girls make up kit, it needs to be just thick enough to go in under the arm so as not to make the right turn activate, and it should then stop it flicking the left on when you straighten the wheel.

This has got me through mot's and council tests, but they do tell me the stalk is floppy but it works.

petedes

[sirwiggum]

I have the same problem on my 52 plate rapier, it's a taxi with 212000 miles on the clock and it's been like it for 5 years.

I have managed to live with it by using a small piece of fine foam cut from a girls make up kit, it needs to be just thick enough to go in under the arm so as not to make the right turn activate, and it should then stop it flicking the left on when you straighten the wheel.

This has got me through mot's and council tests, but they do tell me the stalk is floppy but it works.

petedes

I bought mine the previous owner had done this, stuffed half a newspaper under it to stop it. (2002 Rapier with 135k)

It's not a difficult fix despite my gurning about it. £140 part from fleabay
- Disconnect battery
- Take apart centre console
- Disconnect Airbag ECU
- Use long screwdriver up steering wheel to "pop off" airbag
- Prise airbag off (hardest part I found) and disconnect connectors
- Use a T55 hex allen/security key to take steering wheel bolt off
- Take off steering wheel and shroud
- Disconnect old COM unit
- single bolt at the back of the COM unit and it clips off

Refitting is the reverse of this. Once reconnected Airbag ECU and Battery start ignition through drivers window just in case...

[teamster1975]

Once reconnected Airbag ECU and Battery start ignition through drivers window just in case...

[sirwiggum]

I had visions of that bank advert where someone gets life changing news and because of the cost an airbag goes off in their chest.