Clutch Change-How-To.

[mjb]

The gearbox mount threaded bit has a hex base needing a spanner about 15.5mm but both my adjustable spanner and the 16mm just want to round it (can't get the round part of the spanner to it because the bracket's in the way) so I just spent 2 hours stripping the engine bay to remove the gearbox mount bracket only to discover it's held in by at 2 bolts which need the aircon pipework removed in order to access. What a nightmare.

I have no idea what to do with this car now. I think I'm going to just try to pry the gearbox out, f*ck the body/subframe/engine

Even if I'm successful I have no idea what to do about getting the subframe back in place

[Captain Jack]

Think of all the experience you're getting!

What a horrible job though...

[mjb]

what, how to write off a car because of one broken nut? fantastic experience

I can't even sell the thing. Hell, I can't even give the sodding thing away because it's got no front wheels and half the engine bay half falling out

[coco]

Reading this I'm laughing and wincing at the same time.

Good luck !

[mjb]

I think I'm going to find a mobile mechanic to cut open the body, weld the captive nut up, then weld the hole shut again

[steve_earwig]

Reading this I'm laughing and wincing at the same time.

Good luck !

I'm just wishing I was a bit closer so I could pop round and lend a hand, I know just how depressing this sort of thing gets when you're working on your tod and things are all going pear-shaped. Still, it always goes back together somehow and amazes me when it actually works afterward too.

[DaiRees]

Battle on Matt, you'll get there eventually. As others have said persistance and brute force will win through in the end.

Dunno what to suggest with the captive nut without actually seeing it?



I must remember this thread next time I'm feeling brave....

[mjb]

I've got someone coming round tonight with an angle grinder and mig welder...

With fortuitous timing, the BBC reminds me that it could always be worse...
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/uk/8138012.stm

Stay tuned for the inevitable pictures of my coupe trying to out-do its Italian cousin!

[Welly]

I was going to say yesterday about getting a Mobile Mechanic to come and do the whole lot (or at least leave you with a new clutch and box back in place so you can put it all back together). I thought though that you must have good reason to work it yourself otherwise you'd have a garage do it before.

Might be worth getting help though matey.

No good asking me though, I'm about as good with a spanner as I am with a Grand Piano

My mechanic likes me though, a lot.

[mjb]

I thought though that you must have good reason to work it yourself otherwise you'd have a garage do it before.

£££

[Doggy]

I've got someone coming round tonight with an angle grinder and mig welder...

Decided to get serious then?

We're all rooting for you, (& awaiting developments with some trepidation)...

[mjb]

Well he came around (boyfriend of the admin woman at work), cut a hole through the inner wheelarch, welded up the captive nut then welded up the hole. Bolt came out easy as pie with the nut hot, cleaned up the corrosion and now it goes in and out nicely.

So i take the subframe off. Fairly easy, but turned out to be quite time consuming since I had to lower it down in stages on axle stands. It's quite heavy, but liftable one side at a time... Just need to take the 2 PAS hose mounts off, undo the lower engine mount, then unbolt the steering rack. Easy. Also the offside mount captive nut (a big square) turns, but it didn't spin thank god

So then I decide to finish pulling the gearbox out. Not so easy. The thing is the box can come out of the engine about 1.5 inches before the mount hits the bracket. So I lower the engine a bit, and the gearbox can come out of the engine about 2 inches before the mount hits the body. Turns out you need to pull the box about 4 inches from the engine so the gearbox drive shaft clears the clutch plate

So I dropped the engine as low as I dared so it was hanging on by about 1/2 inch of bolt on the top mount. A few hours of faffing about and I had the gearbox on the floor. Sidewards. On top of the jack. Which was sidewards. Nearly ended up buried IN my head a few times I'll tell you Also due to the clearance required (but didn't know about at the time) I spent a lot of time faffing about with the gearbox driveshaft wedged through the fingers of the clutch plate

Nightmare. I think anyone attempting this in future should consider removing the exhaust downpipe, draining the coolant, and dropping the engine right out

I'll be changing the clutch tomorrow if it turns out I have enough brake fluid, but I have absolutely no idea how to get the gearbox back in the car. It's not lightweight in any way shape or form - and I'm not exactly weedy in build! I'll have to take plenty of painkillers just to be able to balance it on a jack though

I was thinking you'd just slap a jack under it, free it from the 'box, pull the jack away from the engine then drop it. That scenario couldn't be further from reality.

Differences from the HOWTO and notes for an ES9J4 V6 coupe: (mainly for my reference when doing the picture HOWNOTTO)
The engine needs to be rotated at a VERY nasty angle at a minimum BEFORE the box is separated (else the mount will catch)
The cruise control bag MUST be removed else the gear selector arm will catch on it, and that bag will happily support the weight of the gearbox if it's caught on the clutch plate. The subframe needs removing to get to this.
The subframe MUST come out
That bloody intermediate bearing... grrr... possible with the subframe in but for the love of gawd don't!
2 people are a MUST for getting the gearbox out. It's too heavy for one person to manhandle alone, and trying to balance it on a jack while it's driveshaft is still engaged in the clutch is completely futile
The starter is behind a heat shield behind the front exhaust pipe, then there's 3 bolts but only 2 are visible. You may need to undo the exhaust clamp to get to the 3rd. You have to unplug the oil temperature sensor before you can slide it back
The flywheel sensor is very easily forgotten (I hope I haven't snapped mine)
The diff speed sensor's under a little bag
The gear selector cables can be removed from under the bonnet, but the subframe needs to be removed to refit the clips
The gearbox mount bracket CANNOT be removed without removing the aircon pipework
Need to see if there's any screw holes that lead to the front/top subframe mounts. It'll be a massive help to anyone else if you can get some WD40 in there and onto the nut and/or bolt thread
A breaker bar hande will fit nicely between the gearbox and it's mount via the wheelarch
You want at least 2 sets of ratchet action axle stands, especially if attempting solo. My 2nd set are bar-through-hole types and are bloody difficult to use with one hand while you're holding up the gearbox with your other hand
Essential hand tools: 1/2" breaker bar, 1/2" ratchet, 10,11,13,15,16,18,19,21mm sockets AND ring spanners, 6mm allen socket, long and short 1/2" extension bars, 35mm 1/2" impact socket (36mm will work), 1/4" 72-tooth ratchet, 7,8,10,11,13,16mm sockets, T20,T30,T40 torx bits/sockets, wire brushes (fine and course), WD40, Brake cleaner, big tough flathead screwdriver for levering, large mole grips, 2lb hammer, fags, beer, painkillers, inspection lamp (NOT a torch!), high lift jack, any other jack, lumps of wood, cable ties, bits of wire (for tying stuff up), patience. lots and lots of patience

This is the coupe too - the saloon has considerably less space under the bonnet

This has been a VERY educational project, but so far f**k me it's not been easy

Hopefully getting it all back together will be a lot quicker

[mjb]

oh yeah I'm not having a go at Jasper there, I'm just giving things from the perspective of a 406 V6 owner, and a person who's never come close to doing as big a job on a car (and had previously never touched suspension at all due to a fear of big springs )

[Welly]

Crikey m, sounds a right job that one.

[djheath]

Well done!!

I know mine was a pig a of a job and my car is a small 1.8 with cable clutch, lever gear linkages, no subframe and easy to get to components. It was a still the worst three days of my life trying to change the clutch - although to be fair the worst part wasn't removing the box, it was getting it back in that took two days and a visit from a mobile mechanic to help me. He also rubbed salt in my wounds by saying "we change clutches in 2 and half hours don't you know!". I realise you still have that to come, and I wont lie to you, it's horrible trying to jack the box up, twist it around, line it up and swear all at the same time. Hence why I ended up getting a mobile mechanic out who laid on the ground, picked the box up and lifted it in above his chest in one quick movement!

Just keep at it. You will be happy once it's done and learnt a lot. Now that I have changed a clutch on my car I feel confident in attempting any job that it will throw at me.